March 25, 1999 - An Everglades adventure, Part 18A • The Suffolk Times • March, 25( 1999
An Everglades adventure, Part 1
One thing we've learned from travel-
ing about the country with a camper is
that whenever possible we travel on a
Sunday. In that way we usually miss the
flow of truck traffic that is horrendous
at times and in some cases downright
scary. With that in mind, we try to make
our stays at each campground a week in •
length and move on Sunday. As
planned we left John Prince Camp-
ground in Fort Worth just about 7 a.m.
and our drive south was uneventful.
You remember
we hooked up
our fifth -wheel
camper to the
pickup the night NATURE
before so that in
the morning all by Paul
we had to do was Stoutenburgh
disconnect the
power and water lines and we were off.
The further south we went in Florida
the more truck farming we saw. Each
farm had its own irrigation motor and
.pump mounted on a truck body spew-
ing out its 300 to 400 gallons of water
per minute like some giant fire hose.
And two - and -a -half hours we were
passing through the city of Homestead,
which, by the way, has been mostly
rebuilt but still shows signs of those
devastating hurricanes that swept
through this flat unprotected area. We
made one stop before we entered the
park, at the last farmstand on the way
in. We indulged in a large papaya even
though we thought it quite expensive.
It was delicious and being such a large
one lasted us for days. What stole my
heart about this particular farmstand
was the large, low purple martin house
that was loaded with chirping martins.
(They are the largest members 01 one
swallow family.) So accustomed to peo-
ple at the stand, they would permit you
to get within 10 feet of them. Needless
to say, we captured these bold and iri-
descent swallows on film.
Although the park itself is only 26
percent of the actual ecosystem of the
Everglades, it still covers a hefty
1,507,850 acres, most of which are
Focus
ON
under shallow water. This 50- mile -wide
area has anywhere between a few inch-
es to a few feet of water all eventually
flowing very gradually south into
Florida Bay. The highest point in this
whole expanse of grass and water is a
mere eight' feet above sea level. We
traveled the long straight
road for about 40 miles
past the National Park
Visitor Center entrance
near Homestead to get
to our campground at
Flamingo. On our way
we passed through sandy
palmetto pinelands that
later thinned out to vast
expanses of saw grass as
far as the eye could see.
Pock - marked through
these wide ,open spaces
were hammocks (is-
lands) comprised of mix-
tures of hardwoods and
dense shrubbery. These
outcroppings occur
whenever the underlying
limestone creates ridges
or slight elevations.
Mile after mile we
drove. It was hard to
imagine we were actually
looking across a vast sea
of grass where slow, ever
so slow, water was mov-
ing southward. Even-
tually the fresh water will
meet the salt water of
Florida Bay. Here the
mangroves take over.
First out of the bay are
the red mangroves that
anchor themselves to the
soft ooze below with long
spider -like roots; then as
the salinity gradually
changes, the black man-
groves take over; and finally, far from
the edge of the salt of the bay, the white
mangroves establish themselves. This
great mass of roots, limbs and leaves
creates a buttress to storms and hurri-
canes that occasionally pass over this
vast outpost of the Everglades National
Park.
We finally reached our campsite at
Flamingo. The general area hadn't
changed much since our last visit some
years ago. Perhaps 'a bit more shop-
worn and perhaps, through our eyes,
unhitched from the pickup and set up,
as there were no hookups for electrici-
ty, water or sewage at this campground.
The only thing that seemed unnatural
in this quiet and serene place was an
occasional generator running from the
rig of someone who had to have some
of today's modern ameni-
ties that require 110 volts.
Our week at the park was
one of never - ending splen-
dor. The weather couldn't
have been better: warm
days, cool nights and
always a breeze. Of
course, there were a few
mosquitoes that proved to
be first -class opportunists
at finding just the right
spot to bite, but then with
today's bug repellents they
were mostly held off and
proved no real problem.
One morning we took a
canoe trip into the man-
grove swamp at Nine Mile
Pond. As we got out of the
pickup and looked across
the pond we could see two
or three large alligators
slowly cruising by. This
wasn't so bad, but just
down the shore three
more large ones sunned
themselves. We were
assured by'the ranger who
was leading our group not
to be concerned, and true
to his word they paid little
attention to us.
Thievery in the air
Once in the canoes we
headed across the pond to
the opposite shore, where
our canoe trail was to
start. Having a bit more
experience than those in the other six
canoes, we arrived first and had time
to look about. It was here we had one
of the great sights of the day. An adult
bald eagle and an immature were dive -
bombing an osprey that had just
caught a fish. We had read about this
piracy of the eagle with the osprey and
were now witnessing it live. Time and
time again the adult dove and
harassed the osprey, who in turn tried
to evade it by diving and giving out
screams of alarm like a little kid when
his big brother tries to take away his
favorite toy.
Finally when the osprey was driven
down to about 20 feet from the water, it
gave up its prize and dropped the fish.
Immediately the eagle was there and
swooped in to pick up the still- squirm-
ing fish. It was a thrilling sight to see
and one that had us checking this spot
often. On one of our stops we saw the
same two eagles cavorting in the air,
diving toward each other, etc., and then
just when they were about ready to col-
lide, one flipped over on its back, feet in
the air, holding the other one at bay.
Another time right in front of us we
saw the adult eagle swoop in, snatch a
fish right off the surface of the water
and take off in the air with it. What a
sight!
Our canoes wandered in and out of
the tunnel -like watery trail that some-
times narrowed down so that the
canoes barely squeezed through. We
saw wood storks using their big open
See Focus, next page
Suffolk Times photo by Paul Stoutenburgh
This is our only true stork, a southern bird that's rarely seen as
far north as Long Island. It's having a difficult time surviving
because of Its loss of habitat, particularly during nesting time.
Looking almost ugly on the ground, It's magnificent In flight.
-LET'S LOOK BACK
there were fewer campers. Yet it was
good to see the tent section going
strong and it brought back memories
of when we were younger and slept on
the ground without giving it a second
thought. In no time at all we were
75 years ago
March 21, 1924
Klan paper comes out: A weekly newspaper to be pub-
lished in the interest of the Ku Klux Klan of Suffolk
County will make its appearance sometime this week, it is
said, and will be edited by the Rev. Howard Mather, pas-
tor of East Moriches Methodist Church. The paper will
be called "Klan Kraft."
A lively campaign: The candidacy of William J. Mills of
Greenport for Republican state committeeman gains
strength daily. Mr. Mills, wherever he goes about the dis-
trict, has that rare ability of making and holding friends.
He is recognized as a man well fitted for the leadership of
his party.
... His many friends predict that when the ballots are
counted after the primary election that he will be elected
Republican committeeman by a large majority.
50 years ago
March 25, 1949
Advertisements: Special this week: Jumbo shrimp, 15
to the pound, 85 cents; large jumbo soft crabs, 35 cents
each; rock lobster tails, $1 per pound; steamer clams, half
peck, $1.25; and many other seafood items at Pell's
Seafood Market. Telephone Greenport 146.
Used aircraft for sale: $325 for Piper J3F -60, manufac-
tured December 1939. Aircraft TT 2486; engine TT 1456.
Right wing and fuselage recovered 1948. Runs and flies
OK. Will cost $50 to license.
$1,990 for Howard DGA -15P. P &W 450 Wasp in a
clean five -place ship. Blue leather seats, full radio, hydro -
matic prop with spinner. Flown 10 hours since conversion
and refinish. Engine OK, airframe good. A real buy for
the person who wants a cross- country airplane.
All planes are based at Mattituck Airhase and may be
inspected at any time.
25 years ago
March 21, 1974
Townsend elected mayor: Joseph Townsend Jr., 28,
toppled politicians' predictions this Tuesday to win the
post of Mayor of Greenport by 421 to 320, including six
absentee ballots.
Incumbent Mayor David Walker, who was generally
assumed to he a shoo -in, answered the phone cheerily at
his home after the polls closed and found people com-
menting, "Are you kidding ?" when he told them the final
figures.
Even young Joe, usually urbane and imperturbable,
seemed surprised at the plurality of votes he received,
attributing it to villagers' desire for a change in direction at
a time that he feels is critical in Greenport's development.
In an election noted for its sportsmanship on both sides
neither candidate said a harsh word about the other —
both candidates represented different worlds: Walker a
seasoned, experienced politician, and Townsend, a new-
comer to politics with a fresh slant on old problems, the
people's choice.