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October 05, 2006 - Block Island, revisited12A • The Suffolk Times • October 5, 2006 r w t j.. iC `��i,r,* 4 s- �r-ay,�4� :.: -#..,y .. �. # � M�1 •, d �£ i'�_ tr - SlAtI,Ik 1 rtnes phli Iov by BaI 11z Is, e -,d Pi ;;toute, yl'. Block Island overflows with scenes like this one. Payne's Dock on the right acts like a mecca for boats large and small. Early In the morning Is the best time to capture this unique island charm. Block Island, revisited WE'D BEEN TRYING to get away to Block Island for the past month or so but there always seemed to be some- thing that robbed us of the opportu- nityThen recently time came along without any commitments, but then the weather didn't look good: clouds, thunderstorms, and showers — all the things you don't want to have on a vacation. When situations like that try to dampen our plans we "just do it!" anyway. If you change your plans every time something comes along, you'll miss half of life, so "Just do it!" Some hasty packing by Barbara and we were headed for Block Island via the Orient Point ferry to New London and then to Point Judith, R. I., and on to Block Island. Why the long way to get there'? We found out the Block Is- land ferry that connects New London to Block Island had already stopped its weekday runs. We had no other choice, so we headed for Point Judith, glad to be on our way. The first ferry trip front Orient Point to New London was uneventful except when we entered the Thames River in Connecticut. There was a tugboat as- sisting a huge black submarine into its berth. Gosh, they are big! I wondered if this was one of the submarines that could fire atontic missiles. It was chill- ing to think right here was the means of pulverizing a city and wiping out hun- dreds, no thousands, of people in one devastating blow. I still have problems with things like that. When we arrived at the Point Judith ferry we were a little early and my mind wandered back to my teaching days in Greenport and a special stu- dent named Billy Long. He had chosen to follow the sea, so he worked as a cook on a lobster boat right here at Point Judith. I wondered if there was any chance I might find him after all these years. There was a long fine of fishing boats nearby so I quickly went over to see if anyone knew Billy. I tried two or three boats, and then on one there was a man who knew Billy and even knew the lobster boat he worked on, the Sea Cat. The sad part of my tale is that all the lobster boats were way across the docks and it would be impossible to get over there, see Billy and still get back in time for the last ferry to Block. I'd just have to hope that someday I'd be able to catch up with him. We boarded the fast ferry, and it wasn't long before the drone of the engines found me dozing in a world all my own. Time passed and I suddenly realized people were moving about. We must be nearing our destination. Sleepy -eyed, I got up to see Barbara had everything back in our carriers, ready to move. At Block we hailed a taxi, and as we drove away Fo from the ferry terminal, we ON could see all the docks and stores and hotels hadn't changed since our last visit; the big exception was the lack of people. This time of year Block Island drops back to its normal popula- tion of some 800 plus residents. Dur- ing the busy summer months some 10,000 visitors come to this "Island in the Sea." If this were summer, there would be crowds of vacation- ers pouring off the ferry. Gone were the speeding mopeds buzzing up and down the streets, gone were the tour- ists who made Block Island what it was just a few short weeks ago. The taxi took us to where our son's boat was tied up. This would be our home for the next few days. We climbed up the ladder to the aft deck, where we would be spending much of our time dining and just relaxing. Through the summer many of the family had used the boat at various times; now it was our turn. The time was quarter after C six. On board I pushed the buttons and threw the switches that found us in luxury. We couldn't help but notice the lack of boats in the harbor and along the docks. I would say three- quarters of the boats that were here during the summer had left. I don't like to use the term "ghost town" but that's what it looked like. U S Barbara was right on the ball, and in no time we were dining on crab salad over greens, hot tea and home- made chocolate zucchini cake. With dinner over we walked down to the docks where, during the summer, boats are normally rafted up five to six deep; now only three boats were there. We could see that even some of the floating docks had been moved out to their winter quartets. Some reading after dinner, then early to bed; sleep came easily, with waves gently lapping at the sides of the boat. The next day after breakfast on board we walked into town. We passed the last of the evening primrose with its yellow blooms, goldenrod, butter and eggs, and jewelweed. They say if you break a stalk of jewelweed and rub the juice on your poison ivy itch, it will help get rid of it. Inkberries were ripening in time for fall migrating birds. Salt spray rose was still putting out a few pink blossoms and had already left behind a bounty of rose hips, the marble -sized orange -red seed- NATURE by Paul Stoutenburgh Rock walls were the common way Block Island farmers once fenced in their fields. Today most of the farmers are gone, but the walls still outline the past. pods so rich in Vitamin C. I cringed to see the Japanese bamboo taking over patches of land. It's a real problem, a true invader. Then there's the other old invader, phragmites We have it here at home. We'd see it in many places along the marsh edge. If we looked closely along the way, we'd see still another invader, bittersweet with its now green berries awaiting their fall change into bright scarlet with a yellow covering. As we walked along we stopped at a country store, the Block Island Depot, that had the most delightful assortment of gourmet and organic foul. How they keep so many kinds of fresh foods at such a slow time of the year amazed us. As we left the store it started to rain, so we hailed a taxi to get us into town, where we would take on the posture of true vacationers. Once in town we could see signs in many of the store windows "Closed for the season." Around 5 p.m. we decided to walk the half -mile from the boat to the Oar Restaurant for supper. On our way we marveled at the stone walls that you see all over the island. They are the hallmark of the island. Block Island is so different from our flat North Fork; here it is up and down wherever you go. We had a lovely dinner at The Oar, which gets it name from all the printed oars and paddles from special occa- sions, weddings, races, etc. They hang from the ceiling, cover the walls; they are everywhere. As we sat there one of the huge American cruise ships came in out of the fog like a ghost ship and slowly made its way up the harbor to the dock. It dwarfed everything around it. It would tie up only for the night and then be on its way the next day to a new destination along the New Eng- land coast. Weddings on Block Island are a big thing and this weekend was norexcep- tion. From where we were we could see a HUGE white tent awaiting a big wedding party. It had rained on and off Thursday and Friday but by Saturday morning the sun shone brightly. That must have been a relief to all involved in the weddings. With the sun out, the island came to fife and people arrived on the ferries, once again -there were boats in the harbor. The restaurants got ready for another great fall week- end on Block Island. Block Island is a unique place all should know at least once in a lifetime. e Suffolk Times • October 5, 2006 oc r evisited �r ! xw4 c " � P Islan 1 �r� I I N n`.Z� Suffolk Times photos by Barbara and Paul Stoutenburgh ,Block Island overflows with scenes like this one. Payne's Dock c a mecca for boats large and small. Early in the morning is the best time to capture this unique island charm. WE'D BEEN TRYING to get away to Block Island for the past month or so but there always seemed to be some- thing that robbed us of the opportu- nity. Then recently time came along without any commitments, but then the weather didn't look good: clouds, thunderstorms, and showers — all the things you don't want to have on a vacation. When situations like that try to dampen our plans we "just do it!" anyway. If you change your plans every time something comes along, you'll miss half life, so "Just do it!" Some hasty packing by Barbara and we were headed for Block Island via the Orient Point ferry to New London and then to Point Judith, R. I,,, and on to Block Island. Why the long way to get there? We found out the Block Is- land ferry that connects New London to Block Island had already stopped its weekday runs. We had no other choice, so we headed for Point Judith, glad to be on our way. The first ferry trip from Orient om to New London was uneventful except when we entered the Thames River in Connecticut. There was a tugboat as- sisting a huge black submarine into its berth. Gosh, they are big! I wondered if this was one of the submarines that could fire atomic missiles. It was chill- ing to. think right here was the means o: pulverizing a city and wiping out hun- dreds, no thousands, of people in one devastating blow. I still have problems with things like that. When we arrived at the Point Judith ferry we were a little early and my mind wandered back to my teaching days in Greenport and a special stu- dent named Billy Long. He had chosen to follow the sea, so he worked as a cook on a lobster boat right here at Point Judith. I wondered if there was any chance I might find ham after all these years. i nere was a long line of fishing boat, nearby so I quickly went over to see if anyone knew Billy. I tried two or three boats, and then on one there was a man who knew Billy and even knew the lobster boat he worked on, the Sea Cat. The sad part of my tale is that all the lobster boats were way across the docks and it would be impossible to get over there, see Billy and still get back in time for the last ferry to Block. I'd just have to hope that someday I'd be able to catch up with him. We boarded the fast ferry, and it Focus ON NATURE by Paul Stoutenburgh wasn't long before the drone of the engines found me dozing in a world all my own. Time passed and I suddenly realized people were moving about. We must be nearing our destination. Sleepy -eyed, I got up to see Barbara had everything back in our carrier ready to move. At Block we hailed a taxi, and as we drove away from the ferry terminal, we could see all the docks and stores and hotels hadn't changed since our last visit; the big exception was the lack of people. This time of year Block Island drops back to its normal popula- tion of some 800 plus residents. Dur- ing the busy summer months some 10,000 visitors come to this "Island in the Sea." If this were summer, there would be crowds of vacation- ers pouring off the ferry. Gone were the speeding mopeds buzzing up and down the streets, gone were the tour- ists who made Block Island what it was just a few short weeks ago. The taxi took us to where our son's boat was tied up. This would be our home for the next few days. We climber up the ladder to the aft deck, where we would be spending much of our time dining and just relaxing. Through the summer many of the family had used the boat at various times; now it was ur turn. The time was quarter after to ix. On board I pushed the buttons and hrew the switches that found us in uxury. We couldn't help but notice the ack of boats in the harbor and along he docks. I would say three- quarters )f the boats that were here during the summer had left. I don't like to use the term "ghost town" but that's what it looked like. Barbara was right on the ball, and in no time we were dining on crab salad over greens, hot tea and home- made chocolate zucchini cake. With dinner over we walked down. to the docks where, during the summer, boats are normally rafted up five to six deep; now only three boats were there. We could see that even some of the floating docks had been moved out to their winter quarters. Some reading after dinner, then early to bed; sleep came easily, with waves gently lapping at the sides of the boat. The next day after breakfast on board we walked into town. We passed the last of the evening primrose with its yellow blooms, goldenrod, butter and eggs, and jewelweed. They say if you break a stalk of jewelweed and rub the juice on your poison ivy itch, it will help get rid of it. Inkberries were ripening in time for fall migrating birds. Salt spray rose was still putting out a few pink blossoms and had already left behind a bounty of rose hies, the marble -sized orange -red seed walls were the common way Block Island farmers once fenced in their . Today most of the farmers are gone, but the walls still outline the past. so rich in Vitamin C. - I cringed to see the Japanese bamboo taking over patches of land. It's a real problem, a true invader. Then there's the other old invader, phragmites. We have it here at home. We'd see it in many places along the marsh edge. If we looked closely along the way, we'd see still another invader, bittersweet with its now green berries awaiting their fall change into bright scarlet with a yellow covering. As we walked along we stopped at a country store, the Block Island Depot, that had the most delightful assortment of gourmet and organic food. How they keep so many kinds of fresh foods at such a slow time of the year amazed us. As we left the store it started to rain; so we hailed a taxi to get us into towh, where we would take on the posture of true vacationers. Once in town we could see signs in many of the store windows "Closed for the season." Around 5 p.m. we decided to walk the half -mile from the boat to the Oar .Restaurant for supper. On our way we marveled at the stone walls that you . see all over the island. They are the hallmark of the island. Block Island is so different from our flat North Fork; here it is up and down wherever you go. We had a lovely dinner at The Oar, which gets it name from gall the printed oars and paddles from special occa- sions, weddings, races, etc. They hang from the ceiling, cover the walls; they are everywhere. As we sat there one of the huge American cruise ships came in out of the fog like a ghost ship and slowly made its way up the harbor to the dock. It dwarfed everything around it. It would tie up only for the night and then be on its way the next day to a new destination along the New Eng- land coast. Weddings on Block Island are a big thing and this weekend was no excep- tion. From where we were we could see a HUGE white tent awaiting a big wedding party. It had rained on and o Thursday and Friday but by Saturday morning the sun shone brightly. That must have been a relief to all involved in the weddings. With the sun out, the island came to life and people arrived on the ferries, once again there were boats in the harbor. The restaurants got ready for another great fall week- end on Block Island. Block Island is a unique place all should know at least once in a lifetime.