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June 20, 1991 - Gardiners: The Unchanging IslandC6 The Suffolk Times • June 20, 1991 Gardiners: The Unchanging Island By Paul Stoutenburcih Friday, June 14, 1991 —My wife, Barbara, and I are headed for Gardiners Island, the third in a series of travels by canoe around New York State's most easterly saltwater islands. Robins Island and Shelter Island are both cradled in the bays of the North and South forks of our island, but Gardiners Island on its east flank is open to Block Island Sound, which is really an arm of the great Atlantic Ocean. Knowing this, I paid special attention to the weather and currents that surround this wonderful and well -cared -for island. I use the word "cared for" because the stewards of that island are doing an extremely good job of protecting the treasure of wildlife it holds. We left from the shores of Acabonack and soon found the predicted northerly wind of 10 -15 miles per hour all too true. Our mile crossing was in choppy water but within a half hour our little two -horse power outboard had us at the extreme south end of Gardiners Island. Forty years ago I made a similar crossing in this very same canoe with one of Long Island's most famous natu- ralists, Gil Raynor, who was intent on banding young tems, gulls and ospreys that nested on this long sandy spit. Ospreys then, by the way, nested right on the pebbly beach, which made it most convenient for banding. Our plans were to work our way up the east side, then by the afternoon work down the west side with the wind behi:id us. If I were blind I would have still known when we came around the south end of the island; my bare feet on Focus on Nature the aluminum canoe's bottom sensed a sudden temperature change from the warm bay water to the cool, incoming ocean currents. The water was crystal clear. A far cry from our inner bay waters. Oystercatchers Call We were greeted by the sharp - pitched call of a pair of oystercatchers that used this sandy peninsula as a nesting ground. We would see 19 pairs of these handsome black- and -white birds before our trip would end, reason enough for keeping Gardiners Island a "Keep Off' place. To remind people of this there were conspicuous signs all along the shore telling boaters not to land. We also saw a sprinkling of late migrating shorebirds that should have been by this time in the great tundra area of the north where they nest. In the lee and out of the sloppy sea, we arranged our wet gear and took time out for a tea break. We could immedi- ately see that the black - backed gulls had claimed most of this shore for their nursery. When Gil and I came here years ago the herring gull was the most prominent gull nester. Today, the ag- gressive and larger black- backed gull rules the nesting sites, much to the dismay of the terns, skimmers, herons, ibis and other ground- nesting birds. Again we see changes in bird popula- tions. In the early 1900s black - backed EAST END PHYSICAL THERAPY P.C. 7555 MAIN ROAD, MATTITUCK, N.Y. 11952 (516) 298 -2041 SERVING THE NORTH SHORE • FAYE MCDEW -ODOM, L.P.T. BACK OR NECK PAIN? WHY SUFFER? EAST END PHYSICAL THERAPY MEANS HELP PAIN MANAGEMENT PROGRAMS ARE AVAILABLE POOR POSTURE & MALALIGNMENT CAN LEAD TO: • HEADACHES • HIP OR LEG PAIN • BACK PAIN • STIFFNESS UPON RISING • NECK PAIN • TIGHT MUSCLES • PAINFUL JOINTS • SHOULDER OR ARM PAIN ONE FREE POSTURAL EXAM WITH THIS COUPON CALL FOR APPOINTMENT (516) 298 -2041 r TH S COUPON ENTITLES BEARER TO ONE FREE POSTURAL EXAM AT EAST END PHYSICAL THERAPY P.C. L BY APPOINTMENT ONLY OFFER EXPIRES JUNE 30, 1991 J Y. BLACK - BACKED GULL —This gull was hardly ever seen in the early 1900s but today it is a common resident, nesting in huge colonies on Gardiners Island and Plum Island. gulls were a rarity this far south. Today they're taking over and pushing out many of the good species of bird life. As we worked our way northward we passed the big salt marsh that lies at the south end of the island. We'd pass many of these nutrient factories as we circled the island and were once again reminded how important creeks and marshes are to the whole Peconic estuary that stretches from the Peconic River in the west to Gardiners Island in the east. While doing surveys on Gardiners through the years, I've marveled at how well it's kept its natural identity. Except for occasional shifting of inlets to the off -limit creeks and the continual eroding of its shores, Gardiners Island has looked basically the same through the years. At one time there were a few fishing shacks permitted on its beaches. Storms and erosion have taken them away, giving fair warning of nature's endless quest to rule. Islands Have Rocky Shores The east side of the island has spec- tacular vertical cliffs created by the clay that outcrops on that side. Like Shelter Island and Robins Island it too has its rocky shores which can be very danger- ous in their hidden state. Another reason boaters should stay clear. We saw snowy and great egrets flying presumably to their nesting sites or feeding grounds. Glossy ibis picked oc- casionally along the shore but the pre- dominant bird in the air and on the ground was the black- backed gull. Their fluffy, grey young could be seen scurry- ing for shelter in the high grass as we moved along. On the rocky points we could see 20 or 30 cormorants resting from their al- ready busy day of fishing. Some had their wings spread out drying. Their home base was on the opposite side of the island. We passed Tobaccolot and its old army cement lookout tower to the north, a grim reminder of those war years of long ago. Just before we reached the great marshes and sandy point of Bostwick Point we noticed a large colony of 150 or more bank swallows. We'd seen them working the marshes and dunes back at Tobaccolot and wondered where they were nesting. Here again, like much of the island's shores, gulls nested. Yet, despite the high concentra- tion of these marauding intruders, the ospreys seemed to be doing well. Sprinkled all along the shore and partic- ularly at the north end of Bostwick their nests could be seen. Through our binoc- ulars we could see young osprey heads wobbling back and forth asking for food. One adult swung in dangling a large silvery bunker. Oh, to have had a picture of that! Downwind Sail We rounded Bostwick Point and left the Old Ruins to the north. With the wind behind us, we sailed around Cherry Hill with its menacing rocks to the west. As we approached Home Pond, another marsh area, we could see hun- dreds and hundreds of cormorant nests in the trees, their "white wash" killing trees and any greenery below. The whole area took on a greyish -white look with dots of black cormorants sitting on nests. Above Home Pond was the great brick mansion and down by the tiny harbor was the white windmill that once ground the grain for this then self- suffi- cient island. Its wooden parts are still intact, a masterpiece from a forgotten age. The seas were building up and I had all I could do to keep on course. Water shipped over the side and sloshed around below. We were wet and even a bit cold but we had accomplished what we had come for, circling probably one of the most important wildlife habitats on our eastern seaboard. Give, Get Respite The Suffolk County Respite Pro- gram offers occasional relief to those caring for older spouses, relatives or friends on a long -term basis. Volun- teers are needed; call 548 -3335 for more information.