May28, 1981 - Remember the Blowfish?I May 28, 1981
Remember
Tbt Ndufs- Rebitw
the Blowfish?
It has been said that things go in cycles.
One year we have scallops and the next
year we don't. For a while there were no
weakfish. Now they're back. The same is
true of our creek oysters. And what about
the blowfish? I'll bet some of you can
remember when they were considered
trash fish. How the bottom fishermen
hated them. They'd rob the bait and then if
caught would only fight like a wet sock.
There was nothing good you could say
about them in those days. Surely they
weren't a pretty fish like the weakfish.
Their big front teeth were so powerful that
they could cut the gut of the hook if
swallowed deep enough.
Years ago the blowfish were so-plentiful
in our bays that we as kids often corralled
them along the beach and drove them right
out of the water with our hands and feet.
They were everywhere and their appetites
never seemed to be satisfied. They ate just
about anything and they were good size.
Their swelling up when tickled on the
stomach was the main fun for us. We'd
throw them from hand - to-hand, their tight
white bellies making them look like a ball.
All went well until for some reason they
would flutter out and deflate. Then they'd
be passed back into the water and we'd
find another one.
Often we'd let them go all puffed up on
the surface of the water. They'd remain
their like a white ball for a short time and
then deflate and swim away. When chased,
they'd give a burst of speed and then slow
down and wait. They made easy prey for
us kids.
The period of trash fish didn't last too
long; we soon found that what we thought
was useless offered excellent eating. They
were sought by everyone. The market-
place picked up the idea and marketed
them under the name chicken of the sea --
a rare delight -- a gourmet's dream. Here
was a fish with extreme qualities, no
messy bones for the customer to wade
through, and delicious eating.
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In Greenport I can remember the
professional skinners as they whipped
through hundreds and hundreds of these
prickly critters effortlessly in what to me
seemed an unbelievably short time. A cut
behind the head, bend the fish over, hold
the body with a knife and pull and the job
was done. Sounds so easy but only a rare
few could do it with such speed.
Slow but Sure
Most of us skinned them all right, but at
a much slower rate. You could always tell
those who had skinned blowfish without
gloves. Their fingers and hands would look
as if the skin had been sanded rough. The
prickly skin really did a job on them, but
then everyone was cleaning blowfish and it
really didn't matter.
To the oldtimers they were not blowfish
but swellbellies, and you could always tell
the newcomer from the old by the name
they called them. They simply were the
best eating that came from the bay.
Cooked to a golden brown and served
sizzling hot, picked up and eaten like corn
on the cob you really had something
worthwhile. One bone down the back, that
acted like a handle when eating, and that's
all there was to it.
They turned out to be the wonder fish for
kids for they never had to go home empty
handed. Blowfish were easy to catch and
you could get them most anywhere; off a
dock, in a boat or from shore. All you
needed was a small hook, a sinker and line.
If you wanted to go first class you'd use a
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Page 13
BLOWFISH - -This once plentiful gourmet's delight may yet return to our
bays. Photo by Paul Stoutenburgh
pole but many a meal was brought in
hand - over -hand.
Often when we ran out of bait we'd jig for
them. Looking down off a dock in shallow
water we'd wait until one swam up
inquisitively checking over your hook.
Then when he got in the right position we'd
yank the hook up and you'd have your fish.
In those days when we drew seine to get
spearing for snapper fishing we'd get the
little one -to-two inch baby blowfish in our
net. Like the adults they'd immediately
swell up with air like little white golf balls,
bottom side up. The swelling up, of course,
is a defense against being swallowed by
other fish and I can- see why. For all
blowfish have small spines over their
entire body when inflated and it surely
would not be appetizing if swallowed
especially if they were full of water, as
they would be below the surface. When out
of water it merely fills up with air but in
either case it would be a pretty tough pill to
swallow.
Toxic Roe?
With all the good attributes of the
blowfish there has always been some
apprehension about eating its roe. Some
say it's toxic and should not be eaten. I
think the problem arises from the fact that
in the tropics the blowfish is definitely
poisonous. I know from my own experience
that our blowfish roe is delicious. To me, it
is the best of all.
The reason for all this diafogue about
blowfish is that I was just recently talking
with someone who told me that the
blowfish were coming back on the south
side, mostly out east. The fishermen are
picking up more and more of these
swellbellies in their nets.
Could it be that after a long period of
absence we once again will see the
blowfish back in our bays? Has the cycle
once more come around? Wouldn't it be
great to have this fish added to our larder?
Surely there would still be some who
would cuss it for stealing their bait and
others who would hate it because it was
their job to clean them, but I for one would
welcome the day when the swellbellies are
once again plentiful in our bays.
PAULSTOUTENBURGH
�o CUSTOM
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