April 27, 2000 - A man, a plan, a return to Panama6A • The Suffolk Times • April 27, 2000
A man, a plan,
There's a chance we might be taking
a trip through the Caribbean, through
the Panama Canal and then up to
California. With this in mind I thought
it might be interesting to take a look
back at my writings over 50 years ago
when I was in the service. At that time
1 recorded my passage through the
canal on board an FS 255 that eventu-
ally wound up being sunk in the inva-
sion of the
Philippines So
Focus travel with me as
ON verbatim relate that trip
verbatim down
NATURE along the East
by Paul Coast and even -
Stoutenburgh tually through the
canal. I wasn't
long out of high
school at the time and the world was
at war. Here are a few pages out of my
old journal, 1944.
THESE DAYS OF LEISURE sailing
when troubles are a thing of the past
will never be forgotten. Sunsets in
which everyone from the captain
down to the lowest mess boy had to
stop work and look. When it was all
over and the stars began to appear it
would be time for "bull sessions."
These talks were never heard except
at this time. Even the sailors' harsh
lingo was left out as the topics of
wives, sweethearts, home politics,
experiences, etc., unrolled. These ses-
sions always brought out the real per-
son. There were no false faces here
and sincerity was the password.
Then aft r hours of such sessions,
which so=imes ran into the small
hours of the morn, the cots were bro-
ken out for sleep. Some of the fellas
thought they had to be real sailors so
they brought hammocks with them.
But the majority had the old standby
GI Army cots and I can assure you
unless I became too involved in the
stars, I woul be asleep in no time. It
always cam-also easy out on deck as if
the air was drugged by some rare
sleeping potion.
I can't remember the number of
days it took us to reach Panama for
there was no major excitement along
OlbiMUTORS OF
.S /s�lft��ili�
u�veca•a •� waraoMo
Thermo Pride'
'e�
Photo courtesy of Vantage World Travel
No matter whether 56 years ago or today, the great gates of the Panama
Canal locks open and close to lift the ships of the world between the
Atlantic and Pacific oceans.
the way. Instead of an occasional
palm tree as we had seen in Key West
there was literally now a forest of
them. Then under these tall, slender
giants was a mammoth lawn of tan-
gled and twisted jungle. Here any
size, shape and shadow of green was
to be found. To enter some of these
matted areas would have proved dif-
ficult for even a snake, no less a hu-
man. Again my mind runs back to
previous readings of
the early Spaniards
when they hauled
their looted cargo
from the Pacific to
the Atlantic. They
were not only ha-
rassed by tribes of
bandits but had to
make their way
through this green
hell. And hell it
must have been be-
fore the mosquito
of death was con-
trolled. Now as we
drop the hook in the outer Bay of
Colon we were fairly sure we would
not be pestered by mosquitoes. But
since this game of life requires draw-
ing low cards, one never knows.
[Later in New Guinea I contracted
malaria.]
Now as in every port I made my
way to the bridge to get hold of the
glasses. Usually there'd be someone
using them so you just pestered the
person with questions until he be-
came disgusted and handed them
over. Every inlet was searched. Ships
would be given a thorough going
over and native canoes would receive
special attention.
But now my eyes came in contact
with what looked like a big canal.
This proved to be the
entrance of the Old
French Canal. It was
started and restarted
many years ago but now
lay idle, a few miles of
useless waterway. What
hardships and heart-
breaks went into those
idle waters. How many
millions went into its
construction, to say noth-
ing of the thousands of
lives lost, but it was a
failure. Utterly and com-
pletely.
Now as the pilot boat made its way
out we broke out the lines that had
been lashed for sea and prepared to
moor ship. Under way to the pier I
remembered seeing the white range
markers up on the hills that were to
lead us in later through the Panama
Canal. Liberty in this town I'll never
`How many millions
went into its
construction, to say
nothing of the
thousands of lives
lost, but it was a
failure. Utterly and
completely.'
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forget. It was here that I saw for the
first time in my life the "red light dis-
trict." I'd often read books with refer-
ence to such and I've heard fellas talk
as only sailors can of such but now I
was actually seeing it. This was only a
small section and later in Panama
City I was to see a larger district.
A few steps brought you into the
modern, such as it was, shopping dis-
trict. Here were plain sidewalks and
streets and cars buzzing about with
men and women at their daily work.
There was always a beer joint at
hand, which in this hot climate was
doing quite well. As you made your
way out of town the shops became
more and more shabby. Souvenir
shops were everywhere. We made the
rounds and I picked up a few trinkets
to send home.
Sluggish natives were everywhere
and the Americans soon thinned out
the further we went out of town. Now
the shops were for the native popula-
tion only. Big two -story apartment
houses took the place of the stores
and bars; probably 20 to 30 families
lived in these. At least that's what it
sounded like. What with the mixed
cries of children, the beilows of an
outraged parent and the occasional
twang of a guitar, all added to make
this a truly native district.
A heavy downpour found us taking
shelter under one of these structures
and with the rain came the birds,
what kind I'll never know, but I do
know they came by the hundreds,
thousands and perhaps millions. They
literally dropped out of the sky into
the nearby trees. You could actually
see the tree sway or sink as the flock
settled upon them. Just when you
thought the tree could take no more,
another flock would descend. Where
they found footing you couldn't tell
for it was now dark. I guess they
came in to roost.
As the rain eased we took off in
search of some entertainment. A
small nightclub afforded this, "The
Native Club." What I remembered
most of this place was not the drinks
or the Spanish waitresses but the
three -piece band with no music what-
soever before them that turned out
song after song. Bass fiddle, guitar
and piano were never played so well.
We stayed just listening until an MP
reminded us of the curfew. We left in
high spirits. Songs, etc., accompanied
us to the ship h la vocal.
Next week we'll continue our pas-
sage through the Panama Canal taken
from the pages of my old service log
of the 1940s.
BIRTHS
SHERMAN —On March 31, 2000, at
University Hospital at Stony Brook,
to Brian and Gina Sherman of
Shelter Island, a daughter, Isabella
Danielle.
SMITH —On March 29, 2000, at NYU
Medical Center, to Andrew and
Jennifer (Moore) Smith of Orient
and New York City, a son, Nathaniel
Raynor.
6A The Suffolk Times • April 27, 2000
A man, a plan
a return to
There's a chance we might be taking
a trip through the Caribbean, through
the Panama Canal and then up to
California. With this in mind I thought
it might be interesting to take a look
back at my writings over 50 years ago
when 1 was in the service. At that time
1 recorded my passage through the
canal on board an FS 255 that eventu-
ally wound up being sunk in the inva-
sion of the
Philippines. So
Focus travel with me as
ON I relate that trip
verbatim down
NATURE along the East
by Paul Coast and even -
Stoutenburgh tually through the
canal. 1 wasn't
long out of high
school at the time and the world was
at war. Here are a few pages out of my
anam
Photo courtesy of Vantage World Travel
No matter whether 56 years ago or today, the great gates of the Panama
Canal locks open and close to lift the ships of the world between the
Atlantic and Pacific oceans.
1MSE DAYS OF LEISURE sailing
when troubles are a thing of the past
will never be forgotten. Sunsets in
which everyone from the captain
down to the lowest mess boy had to
stop work and look. When it was all
over and the stars began to appear it
would be time for "bull sessions."
These talks were never heard except
at this time. Even the sailors' harsh
lingo was left out as the topics of
wives, sweethearts, home politics,
experiences, etc., unrolledAbese ses-
sions always brought out the real per
son. There were no false faces here
and sincerity was the Dassword.
Then aft r hours of such session ,
which so=imes ran into the small
hours of the morn, the cots were bro-
ken out for sleep. Some of the fellas
thought they had to be real sailors so
they brought hammocks with them.
But the majority had the old standby
GI Army cots and I can assure you
unless I became too involved in the
stars, I woul� be asleep in no time. It
always came so easy out on deck as if
the air was drugged by some rare
sleeping potion.
I can't remember the number of
days it took us to reach Panama for
there was no major excitement along
the way. Instead of an occasional
palm tree as we had seen in Key West
there was literally now a forest of
them. Then under these tall, slender
giants was a mammoth lawn of tan-
gled and twisted jungle. Here any
size, shape and shadow of green was
to be found. To enter some of these
matted areas would have proved dif-
ficult for even a snake, no less a hu-
man. Again my mind runs back to
previous readings of
the early Spaniards
when they hauled `How many
their looted cargo
from the Pacific to went into it
the Atlantic. They constructiol
were not only ha- nothing of
rassed by tribes of g t
bandits but had to thousands(
make their way lost, but it 1
through this green
hell. And hell it failure. Utte
must have been be- completely.'
fore the mosquito
of death was con-
trolled. Now as we
drop the hook in the outer Bay of
Colon we were fairly sure we would
not be pestered by mosquitoes. But
since this game of life requires draw-
ing low cards, one never knows.
[Later in New Guinea I contracted
malaria.]
Now as in every port I made my
way to the bridge to get hold of the
glasses. Usually there'd be someone
using them so you just pestered the
person with questions until he be-
di and handed them
over. Every inlet was searched. Ships
would be given a thorough going
over and native canoes would receive
special attention.
But now my eyes came in contact
with what oked like a big canal.
wmn,=� This proved to be the
entrance of the Old
millions French Canal. It was
started and restarted
many years ago but now
it to say lay idle, a few miles of
1e useless waterway. What
hardships and heart -
f lives breaks went into those
►as a idle waters. How many
�I and millions went into its
y construction, to say noth-
ing of the thousands of
lives lost, but it was a
failure. Utterly and com-
pletely.
Now as the pilot boat made its way
out we broke out the lines that had
been lashed for sea and prepared to
moor ship. Under way to the pier I
remembered seeing the white range
markers up on the hills that were to
lead us in later through the Panama
Canal. Liberty in this town I'll never
forget. It was here that I saw for the
first time in my life the "red light dis-
trict." I'd often read books with refer-
ence to such and I've heard fellas talk
as only sailors can of such but now I
was actually seeing it. This was only a
small section and later in Panama
City I was to see a larger district.
A few steps brought you into the
modern, such as it was, shopping dis-
trict. Here were plain sidewalks and
streets and cars buzzing about with
men and women at their daily work.
There was always a beer joint at
hand, which in this hot climate was
doing quite well. As you made your
way out of town the shops became
more and more shabby. Souvenir
shops were everywhere. We made the
rounds and I picked up a few trinkets
to send home.
Sluggish natives were everywhere
and the Americans soon thinned out
the further we went out of town. No
the shops were for the native popula-
tion only. Big two -story apartment
houses took the place of the stores
and bars; probably 20 to 30 families
lived in these. At least that's what it
sounded like. What with the mixed
cries of children, the bellows of an
outraged parent and the occasional
twang of a guitar, all added to make
this a truly native district.
A heavy downpour found us taking
shelter under one of these structures
and with the rain came the birds,
what kind I'll never know, but I do
know they came by the hundreds,
thousands and perhaps millions. They
literally dropped out of the sky into
the nearby trees. You could actually
see the tree sway or sink as the flock
settled upon them. Just when you
thought the tree could take no more,
another flock would descend. Where
they found footing you couldn't tell
for it was now dark. I guess they
came in to roost.
As the rain eased we took off in
search of some entertainment. A
small nightclub afforded this, "The
Native Club." What I remembered
most of this place was not the drinks
or the Spanish waitresses but the
three -piece band with no music what-
soever before them that turned out
song after song. Bass fiddle, guitar
and piano were never played so well.
We stayed just listening until an MP
reminded us of the curfew. We left in
high spirits. Songs, etc., accompanied
us to the ship A la vocal.
Next week we'll continue our pas-
sage through the Panama Canal take
from the pages of my old service log
)f the 1940s
6A The Suffolk Times • April 27, 2000
A man, a plan
a return to
There's a chance we might be taking
a trip through the Caribbean, through
the Panama Canal and then up to
California. With this in mind I thought
it might be interesting to take a look
back at my writings over 50 years ago
when 1 was in the service. At that time
1 recorded my passage through the
canal on board an FS 255 that eventu-
ally wound up being sunk in the inva-
sion of the
Philippines. So
Focus travel with me as
ON I relate that trip
verbatim down
NATURE along the East
by Paul Coast and even -
Stoutenburgh tually through the
canal. 1 wasn't
long out of high
school at the time and the world was
at war. Here are a few pages out of my
anam
Photo courtesy of Vantage World Travel
No matter whether 56 years ago or today, the great gates of the Panama
Canal locks open and close to lift the ships of the world between the
Atlantic and Pacific oceans.
1MSE DAYS OF LEISURE sailing
when troubles are a thing of the past
will never be forgotten. Sunsets in
which everyone from the captain
down to the lowest mess boy had to
stop work and look. When it was all
over and the stars began to appear it
would be time for "bull sessions."
These talks were never heard except
at this time. Even the sailors' harsh
lingo was left out as the topics of
wives, sweethearts, home politics,
experiences, etc., unrolledAbese ses-
sions always brought out the real per
son. There were no false faces here
and sincerity was the Dassword.
Then aft r hours of such session ,
which so=imes ran into the small
hours of the morn, the cots were bro-
ken out for sleep. Some of the fellas
thought they had to be real sailors so
they brought hammocks with them.
But the majority had the old standby
GI Army cots and I can assure you
unless I became too involved in the
stars, I woul� be asleep in no time. It
always came so easy out on deck as if
the air was drugged by some rare
sleeping potion.
I can't remember the number of
days it took us to reach Panama for
there was no major excitement along
the way. Instead of an occasional
palm tree as we had seen in Key West
there was literally now a forest of
them. Then under these tall, slender
giants was a mammoth lawn of tan-
gled and twisted jungle. Here any
size, shape and shadow of green was
to be found. To enter some of these
matted areas would have proved dif-
ficult for even a snake, no less a hu-
man. Again my mind runs back to
previous readings of
the early Spaniards
when they hauled `How many
their looted cargo
from the Pacific to went into it
the Atlantic. They constructiol
were not only ha- nothing of
rassed by tribes of g t
bandits but had to thousands(
make their way lost, but it 1
through this green
hell. And hell it failure. Utte
must have been be- completely.'
fore the mosquito
of death was con-
trolled. Now as we
drop the hook in the outer Bay of
Colon we were fairly sure we would
not be pestered by mosquitoes. But
since this game of life requires draw-
ing low cards, one never knows.
[Later in New Guinea I contracted
malaria.]
Now as in every port I made my
way to the bridge to get hold of the
glasses. Usually there'd be someone
using them so you just pestered the
person with questions until he be-
di and handed them
over. Every inlet was searched. Ships
would be given a thorough going
over and native canoes would receive
special attention.
But now my eyes came in contact
with what oked like a big canal.
wmn,=� This proved to be the
entrance of the Old
millions French Canal. It was
started and restarted
many years ago but now
it to say lay idle, a few miles of
1e useless waterway. What
hardships and heart -
f lives breaks went into those
►as a idle waters. How many
�I and millions went into its
y construction, to say noth-
ing of the thousands of
lives lost, but it was a
failure. Utterly and com-
pletely.
Now as the pilot boat made its way
out we broke out the lines that had
been lashed for sea and prepared to
moor ship. Under way to the pier I
remembered seeing the white range
markers up on the hills that were to
lead us in later through the Panama
Canal. Liberty in this town I'll never
forget. It was here that I saw for the
first time in my life the "red light dis-
trict." I'd often read books with refer-
ence to such and I've heard fellas talk
as only sailors can of such but now I
was actually seeing it. This was only a
small section and later in Panama
City I was to see a larger district.
A few steps brought you into the
modern, such as it was, shopping dis-
trict. Here were plain sidewalks and
streets and cars buzzing about with
men and women at their daily work.
There was always a beer joint at
hand, which in this hot climate was
doing quite well. As you made your
way out of town the shops became
more and more shabby. Souvenir
shops were everywhere. We made the
rounds and I picked up a few trinkets
to send home.
Sluggish natives were everywhere
and the Americans soon thinned out
the further we went out of town. No
the shops were for the native popula-
tion only. Big two -story apartment
houses took the place of the stores
and bars; probably 20 to 30 families
lived in these. At least that's what it
sounded like. What with the mixed
cries of children, the bellows of an
outraged parent and the occasional
twang of a guitar, all added to make
this a truly native district.
A heavy downpour found us taking
shelter under one of these structures
and with the rain came the birds,
what kind I'll never know, but I do
know they came by the hundreds,
thousands and perhaps millions. They
literally dropped out of the sky into
the nearby trees. You could actually
see the tree sway or sink as the flock
settled upon them. Just when you
thought the tree could take no more,
another flock would descend. Where
they found footing you couldn't tell
for it was now dark. I guess they
came in to roost.
As the rain eased we took off in
search of some entertainment. A
small nightclub afforded this, "The
Native Club." What I remembered
most of this place was not the drinks
or the Spanish waitresses but the
three -piece band with no music what-
soever before them that turned out
song after song. Bass fiddle, guitar
and piano were never played so well.
We stayed just listening until an MP
reminded us of the curfew. We left in
high spirits. Songs, etc., accompanied
us to the ship A la vocal.
Next week we'll continue our pas-
sage through the Panama Canal take
from the pages of my old service log
)f the 1940s
6A The Suffolk Times • April 27, 2000
A man, a plan
a return to
There's a chance we might be taking
a trip through the Caribbean, through
the Panama Canal and then up to
California. With this in mind I thought
it might be interesting to take a look
back at my writings over 50 years ago
when 1 was in the service. At that time
1 recorded my passage through the
canal on board an FS 255 that eventu-
ally wound up being sunk in the inva-
sion of the
Philippines. So
Focus travel with me as
ON I relate that trip
verbatim down
NATURE along the East
by Paul Coast and even -
Stoutenburgh tually through the
canal. 1 wasn't
long out of high
school at the time and the world was
at war. Here are a few pages out of my
anam
Photo courtesy of Vantage World Travel
No matter whether 56 years ago or today, the great gates of the Panama
Canal locks open and close to lift the ships of the world between the
Atlantic and Pacific oceans.
1MSE DAYS OF LEISURE sailing
when troubles are a thing of the past
will never be forgotten. Sunsets in
which everyone from the captain
down to the lowest mess boy had to
stop work and look. When it was all
over and the stars began to appear it
would be time for "bull sessions."
These talks were never heard except
at this time. Even the sailors' harsh
lingo was left out as the topics of
wives, sweethearts, home politics,
experiences, etc., unrolledAbese ses-
sions always brought out the real per
son. There were no false faces here
and sincerity was the Dassword.
Then aft r hours of such session ,
which so=imes ran into the small
hours of the morn, the cots were bro-
ken out for sleep. Some of the fellas
thought they had to be real sailors so
they brought hammocks with them.
But the majority had the old standby
GI Army cots and I can assure you
unless I became too involved in the
stars, I woul� be asleep in no time. It
always came so easy out on deck as if
the air was drugged by some rare
sleeping potion.
I can't remember the number of
days it took us to reach Panama for
there was no major excitement along
the way. Instead of an occasional
palm tree as we had seen in Key West
there was literally now a forest of
them. Then under these tall, slender
giants was a mammoth lawn of tan-
gled and twisted jungle. Here any
size, shape and shadow of green was
to be found. To enter some of these
matted areas would have proved dif-
ficult for even a snake, no less a hu-
man. Again my mind runs back to
previous readings of
the early Spaniards
when they hauled `How many
their looted cargo
from the Pacific to went into it
the Atlantic. They constructiol
were not only ha- nothing of
rassed by tribes of g t
bandits but had to thousands(
make their way lost, but it 1
through this green
hell. And hell it failure. Utte
must have been be- completely.'
fore the mosquito
of death was con-
trolled. Now as we
drop the hook in the outer Bay of
Colon we were fairly sure we would
not be pestered by mosquitoes. But
since this game of life requires draw-
ing low cards, one never knows.
[Later in New Guinea I contracted
malaria.]
Now as in every port I made my
way to the bridge to get hold of the
glasses. Usually there'd be someone
using them so you just pestered the
person with questions until he be-
di and handed them
over. Every inlet was searched. Ships
would be given a thorough going
over and native canoes would receive
special attention.
But now my eyes came in contact
with what oked like a big canal.
wmn,=� This proved to be the
entrance of the Old
millions French Canal. It was
started and restarted
many years ago but now
it to say lay idle, a few miles of
1e useless waterway. What
hardships and heart -
f lives breaks went into those
►as a idle waters. How many
�I and millions went into its
y construction, to say noth-
ing of the thousands of
lives lost, but it was a
failure. Utterly and com-
pletely.
Now as the pilot boat made its way
out we broke out the lines that had
been lashed for sea and prepared to
moor ship. Under way to the pier I
remembered seeing the white range
markers up on the hills that were to
lead us in later through the Panama
Canal. Liberty in this town I'll never
forget. It was here that I saw for the
first time in my life the "red light dis-
trict." I'd often read books with refer-
ence to such and I've heard fellas talk
as only sailors can of such but now I
was actually seeing it. This was only a
small section and later in Panama
City I was to see a larger district.
A few steps brought you into the
modern, such as it was, shopping dis-
trict. Here were plain sidewalks and
streets and cars buzzing about with
men and women at their daily work.
There was always a beer joint at
hand, which in this hot climate was
doing quite well. As you made your
way out of town the shops became
more and more shabby. Souvenir
shops were everywhere. We made the
rounds and I picked up a few trinkets
to send home.
Sluggish natives were everywhere
and the Americans soon thinned out
the further we went out of town. No
the shops were for the native popula-
tion only. Big two -story apartment
houses took the place of the stores
and bars; probably 20 to 30 families
lived in these. At least that's what it
sounded like. What with the mixed
cries of children, the bellows of an
outraged parent and the occasional
twang of a guitar, all added to make
this a truly native district.
A heavy downpour found us taking
shelter under one of these structures
and with the rain came the birds,
what kind I'll never know, but I do
know they came by the hundreds,
thousands and perhaps millions. They
literally dropped out of the sky into
the nearby trees. You could actually
see the tree sway or sink as the flock
settled upon them. Just when you
thought the tree could take no more,
another flock would descend. Where
they found footing you couldn't tell
for it was now dark. I guess they
came in to roost.
As the rain eased we took off in
search of some entertainment. A
small nightclub afforded this, "The
Native Club." What I remembered
most of this place was not the drinks
or the Spanish waitresses but the
three -piece band with no music what-
soever before them that turned out
song after song. Bass fiddle, guitar
and piano were never played so well.
We stayed just listening until an MP
reminded us of the curfew. We left in
high spirits. Songs, etc., accompanied
us to the ship A la vocal.
Next week we'll continue our pas-
sage through the Panama Canal take
from the pages of my old service log
)f the 1940s