September 15, 1994 - Animal World Fattens Up for Winter4A • The Suffolk Times • September 15, 1994
Animal World Fattens Up for Winter
By Paul Stoutenburgh
Sunday morning in September is the
way the world is supposed to be.
Sparkling sunlight on the bay, clear skies
above and a coolness that makes a
sweater feel good. Later in the day the
same will prevail but the sweater will
come off and the odd jobs around the
place will seem easier to finish.
It's the time of the year that nature
gives fair warning to all that there are dif-
ficult times ahead,
Focus on and so forewarned
stock up on the
Nature bounties of fall so
that your journey
into winter will be
more pleasant. Anyone who lives around
our local woods can vouch for the
philosophy of fattening up. Mr. Gray
Squirrel is a typical example. Whether it's
acorns or hickory nuts or the robbing of
your favorite nut tree, he's busy adding
on layers of fat to hold him through the
leaner months ahead. Although active all
winter long, there are periods of extreme
cold that he will hole up in his leafy tree-
top nest or retire in some hollow tree for
short periods of sleep. When ice and
snow and frozen ground keep him from
foraging, he'll conserve his energies and
live off that fat supply he had built up for
these dormant periods.
Once we had chipmunks on our East
End but with most of our land cleared
for farming and then the influx of people
with their pets, chipmunks are generally
a thing of the past. It's too bad because
almost everyone who comes in contact
with these busy little fellows enjoys
them. Today the closest thing we have to
them are the deer mice that gorge them-
selves on nuts and store the surplus for
later. Anyone who has a garage or cellar
and lives in or near the woods, will find
their cache of nuts hidden behind the
garden tools or up on a shelf in their own
secret spot. Nine times out of 10 when
you finally come across them, there will
only be the hollow shells of the nuts left
showing they were used during those
lean months of winter.
I reported a few weeks ago about
going eeling and crabbing in one of our
nearby creeks and not having much luck.
I'm happy to report we tried again about
10 days later and in another creek. This
time we had much better luck. We got a
nice mess of blue crabs and about 13 or
14 eels. It was when I was cleaning these
eels that I got to thinking about the
buildup of fat that animals and fish put
on for their winter stay. Now this might
not be too appealing to some readers but
nevertheless it's part of life — that is, if
you like eels. When the eel is opened up,
one can't help but see the white strips of
fat attached to the stomach walls. Further
opening up of the stomach shows they
were filled with small sand crabs. Here
was one of their secret ingredients that
helped build up their reserve of fat.
Cleaning eels for smoking is a lot dif-
ferent than when you clean them to eat
(fried, boiled or however you cook them)
for when you smoke an eel the skin is left
on so that you have something to hold
them together when they are hung in the
smoker. Otherwise you'd skin the eel for
cooking. The problem comes when you
handle them in the cleaning process.
They are super slippery.
Slippery as an Eel
All fish have a thin coating of mucous
or slime over their scales. This slippery
covering cuts down the friction and
makes their passage through the water
easier. It makes sense. Plus, the mucus
covering acts as an antiseptic that pre-
vents growth of bacteria and fungus, etc.
Together the scales and mucuous cover-
ing make a waterproof enclosure that
prevents uncontrolled sea water from
entering the body. Eels are notoriously
known for their slipperiness and as any-
one who has ever caught one on a line
knows, trying to hold one to get the hook
out is almost impossible. So much so
I've seen some fishermen just give up
and cut the line, leaving sinker, hook, eel
and line squirming in the bucket to be
dealt with later.
With that slippery squirming thing
before you, it becomes a challenge how
to handle it. Some knock them out with
some sort of blunt instrument but then
there's still that slippery eel you have to
contend with. Somehow you have to get
that slippery coating off. Old burlap will
work with its rough surface but you need
Photo by Paul Stoutenburgh
SMOKING EELS — Smokehouses come in various sizes. Here, Tony
Krupski, well remembered for his superb smoked eels, takes a rack of eels
out of his smokehouse.
an awful lot of it and then what do you
do with the old used burlap? My solu-
tion, and it's not an original one, is to
use wood ashes. Put the eel in a bucket
of wood ashes and in no time you can
handle it. The slippery coating now
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While the cool autumn rains offer
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slides off in a damp mass and you are
ready for cleaning.
Once cleaned and washed I then soak
them overnight in a salt solution. Then,
washed thoroughly in fresh, cool water,
they are ready for hanging up in the
smoker. Some people go to great lengths
to add spices of all sorts, sugars and
molasses but I find just plain salt works
best with mine.
The key to smoking is naturally the
smoke. I use hickory, apple or cherry
wood. Seeing I have a lot of cherry it
works well for me. Usually I start a hot
fire in the bottom of the smoker and
when it burns down I hang the eels in the
upper part. Then I lay my hickory logs on
the hot coals so they smolder. Checking
the temperature now and then so that it
doesn't get too hot or too cold, you'll
have the most gorgeous - looking and -
smelling eels in about six to eight hours.
After burning down two wooden
smokehouses to the ground, I reverted to
an old cast -iron bottom from a furnace
with a 52- gallon drum sitting on top with
both ends removed. Five or six steel rods
run through the top of the drum and it's
on these I hang the eels on S- shaped
metal hooks. I regulate the smoke flow
by a piece of metal over the top. For
smaller items to be smoked you can buy
a small backyard smoker that works
equally well. And so with most any kind
of meat or fish try your hand at smoking.
It's an old way that brings new life to
your table.