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October 16, 2008 - North Fork fall, now and thenOctober 16, 2008 •The Suffolk Time or or k fa now an en d umpkins rule the day right now at our local farm stands. The changing seasons are what — make living here on the North Fork so rewarding. Right now the trees are dressed in their fall attire. It seems like every living thing is trying to outdo all the others. It's Nature's last chance to put the final touches on its many gar- dens. It's a time when all are preparing for winter's bag of tricks. If you were to ask someone what the most important sign of fall is, they'd probably say, "Pumpkins," or, "No, I think the fall colors of the trees and bushes," or, "It's the honk- ing of geese as they fly south on their fall migration." There are so many signs of ti fall season, it s re- FOC U S ally hard to pick O N+ a winner. I guess if you NATURE were one of the old -time by Paul farmers you'd StOutenburgh probably say, -- "Digging po- tatoes tells the story of fall, along with the cutting of cauliflower and the vickine of sprouts." I'm sorry to say iarmlug, as we once knew it, is slowly disap- pearing here on Long Island. Being brought up in an area where the potato was king, we naturally ate potatoes at least once a day, and sometimes twice, when potato pancakes were for lunch The reason we ate so many pota- toes was that they were so cheap. For practically nothing a few years ago you could buy enough potatoes to last you all winter. There was even a time when a farmer would let you pick up small potatoes after he had gone through the field. Our good neighbor Pete would let the kids go out and fill up bags of little potatoes that had fallen through the grader. Today those same little potatoes are bagged up and sold in our super markets for a good price As potato farming became less and less common, something new filled its place: grapes. This new enterprise of growing grapes also has its climax in the fall, when the grapes are picked and brought in for processing. Then .with tender loving care they are transformed 1 ato some of the very finest wines. I was introduced to the making of wine many years ago, before the irst wineries arrived; when I experi- mented in making some of mv own. I'm sure I i n t always use the right grapes and my proportions of the ingredients weren't always just right, nevertheless I had fairsuccess. I even built a wine rack in our Homemade wines are usually made with grapes that are readily ay. Here you see some of the grapes I used in my wine — from one of the homesteads here on Long Island, the Howell Farm in Southold. Years ago, before vineyards came to the North Fork, I played with maki wine with the grapes that were available. The best part of winemaking when you cork your wine and put it to rest for future use. Here you see an i Iltalian device I used to cork the bottles. basement w ere I eventually stored all sorts of homemade wines such as peach, strawberry, dandelion and, of course, grape. Some of it was pretty bad but it was an adventure, and to this day there are probably still a few bottles collecting dust on the little -used wine racks. The.photo along with this article shows me bottling some of my wine using a remarkable corker that I got at a yard sale. It has the slickest mechanism for squeezing the cork tc the size of the opening in the bottle and in the same downward motion a plunger pushes the cork into the bottle. It's some neat machine! There's something special about fall on the North Fork; you can feel it, you can see it, and at certain times you can smell it. It's a combi- nation that only Nature can brew. The pumpkins I spoke of ear- lier are picked up and hugged by the children as they plead to their parents, "Please buy me this one!" Some will be taken home and painted with Halloween faces. Some will be cut into gaudy faces and candles will be placed inside and lighted. Still others may be cooked up and made into delicious pumpkin pies. A note from one who knows: Helen Krupski says the only pumpkins she uses for her pies are cheese pumpkins. My experience with pumpkins and lighted candles brings me back to one Halloween when my sis- ter and I were kids and both had lighted candles in our pumpkins. Smarty -pants me had to show her that if you put your lighted pump- kin in a dark place it would show up much better. And where would that be? Under my dad's big loung- ing chair. Oh, how the pumpkin glowed under there! The only problem was -that the heat from the candle set the bot- tom of the chair, on fire and we kids went screaming to my mother, who was doing dishes at the time. She picked up the dishpan, silver and glasses still in it, turned the chair over and doused the fire with the dishwater! Needless to say, we didn't have lighted candles in our