July 19, 2001 - The beauty of Block Island, part 1'0e Suffolk "m`° o July 19, 2001 The beauty of
Block Island part 1
Suffolk Times photo by Barbara Stoutenburgh
This building was once the U.S. Weather Bureau's headquarters for vital
maritime weather dispatches. Today it's a fine B&B sitting atop a hill over-
looking New Harbor to the north.
YEARS AGO, WHEN WE HAD our sail-
boat, we would often stop in at Block
Island. It's a favorite place for boaters
to rendezvous for a weekend, race
week or to just enjoy this mystical little
island that is part of the state of Rhode
Island. My son keeps his boat
out there for a few weeks
each year and he had invited
us to stay aboard and revisit
the island.
You can take a ferry from
Montauk, and in about an
hour and a half you are there.
We got up early to make sure
we would miss the notorious
south side traffic. We arrived in plenty
of time, and with coffee and an egg -
and- sausage roll under our belts we
were readv for the 8:15 a.m. boarding.
It seemed relatively calm but foggy
so I thought we were going to have a
smooth trip, but once we left the end of
the breakwater a rolling sea from the
east started to take its toll with the pas-
sengers on board. We wallowed in the
highs and lows of the waves. The sea
can make the strongest man weak and I
Focus
must say that day there were quite a
ON
few weak ones aboard. When they
started passing out paper bags to the
NATURE
passengers in need, it was a sign that
by Paul
things were getting pretty rough.
Stoutenburgh
Yet we weathered the ride over very
well. Barbara slept through most of it
and the motion of the boat didn't seem
to affect either of us. I had brought
binoculars along in hopes of getting a
glimpse of petrels, shearwaters or even
gannets, but the foggy morning and the
rough seas nut an end to that idea.
Because Block Island is situated only
12 miles offshore and on the Atlantic
flyway, it has become a mecca for land
birds in their migrations north and
south. There are special days on Block
when hundreds of birders from all over
come to check these spring
and fall migrations. Over
175 species of birds have
been recorded on Block
Island, making it one of the
great places to go if you're
interested in birding. But it's
a great place to go even if
you're not interested in
birds, for it has that salty
atmosphere, with quaint little houses,
huge hotels and busy shops.
After we walked to Peter's boat and
opened it up, it didn't take us long to
settle in. Our stomachs told us it was
lunchtime so we walked to Smugglers
Cove nearby to try the food there,
which we found excellent. I had fried
oysters on a roll and Barbara had some
clam chowder and a few crab cakes,
which we enjoyed outside in a delight-
ful, shaded breeze.
After that it was a stroll up the road
and over the bridge of the nearby
creek. It's a picturesque area where
artists often come to paint. Then it was
up past the old weather station. It's
from here that the U.S. Weather
Bureau used to issue its weather
reports. It is a big, square white build-
ing, now turned into a lovely bed and
breakfast. We continued our walk
toward the ocean, crossing another
bridge where kids were diving into the
-ool, clear water below. Scattered
aiiiuugst ine iusn greenery were oFi-
barns with their rustic gray siding. We
could see the state park beach farther
along to the north with its concessions,
bathhouses and lifeguards.
Then it was back to the boat. Out
came books for reading as the day
closed down upon us. We hadn't
thought much about dinner, as our
lunch seemed quite enough, but we
finally decided to get a banana split.
We thought it kind of crazy, but what
the heck, it was vacation time. When
we saw the banana split, we couldn't
believe our eyes. I think someone new
must have put it together, for there
were three scoops of three different
kinds of ice cream instead of just a
scoop each of three different flavors.
With sprinklings of nuts, syrups and
whipped cream added to the top it
became the greatest conglomeration of
calories we ever saw!
The evening breeze was delightful. It
was dry, with not a mosquito about. We
found ourselves lured to bed, the lap-
ping water on the hull lulling us to
sleep.
It was hard to pull ourselves away
from the warm bunks in the cool mom -
ing but we finally did. Vie were greeted
by another beautiful day with its north
wind, dry, cool and delightful. We cov-
ered ourselves with sunscreen, then put
on our wide-hrimmaA J t� —A f ___J_A
There were boats from Connecticut,
Rhode Island, Massachusetts, New
York and other areas all tied up there.
These were just the ones at the dock.
Out in the harbor, they say on busy
weekends they have over a thousand
boats moored. The water was sprinkled
with mostly sailboats. Most of the big
power boats were tied up at the docks.
we nau seen the island many times,
sometimes by bicycle, sometimes by
walking, so this time we decided to hire
a guide to see the island through his
eyes. We were driven north on a lovely
country road that dipped and turned as
it worked its way out to the north end
of the island. They have two lighthous-
es on the island, one called the North
Light and the other the Southeast
Light. Today all lighthouses are mecha-
nically run. There are no more light -
keepers. They are a thing of the past.
Technology has caught up with them,
and like so many things, they are just
memories.
Island settled in 1661
At the end of the road we saw a big
stone marker listing the original settlers
who had arrived at Block at that very
spot in 1661. In back of us was a big
freshwater pond. Here was fresh water
separated from the Atlantic Ocean by a
mere 100 feet of sand and beach grass.
We were amazed to see hundreds of
tree swallows working over the area. It
seemed early for swallows to be migrat-
ing, but seeing there are few dead trees
on the island to nest in, they had to be
swallows that had raised their broods
on the mainland and were heading
south on their fall migration. What else
could it be?
Far off in the distance, across the
pond, we could see 15 or 20 cows knee -
deep in the water, enjoying their morn-
ing drink. There are green rolling pas-
tures everywhere with little mowed
fields and, of course, their low stone
walls. We were told there are 600 miles
of stone walls on the island. There are
still about 150 cattle on the island and
as many horses. We even passed a field
where they were cutting hay. Farming
still hangs on, but nothing large. It
reminds you of the past when farming
was a vital part of Block Island life.
We'll continue our tour of Block
Island next week. See you then.