July 26, 2001 - Revisiting Block IslandThe Suffolk Times • July 26, 2001
Photo by Barbara Stoutenburgh
The picturesque Sullivan House sits atop a green rolling hill overlooking the harbor. It's one of the favorite places for weddings. On busy weekends over
1,000 boats can be seen in the harbor.
LAST WEEK WE WERE REVISITING
3ock Island and had gone on our tour
)f the island up to the North Light.
Phis week we will head south to the
famous Southeast Light.
Backtracking a bit, we headed to
the south end of the island, to the
Southeast Light that now sits safely
atop the 150- foot -high Mohegan
Cliffs. An inspiring spot, I
must say. Of course, we had
to have our picture taken
there by our driver, with the
lighthouse in the back-
- They had the same prob-
lem with the Block Island
light-that Montauk light has
had: erosion. It was eating
away the cliffs so that the lighthouse
was a mere 80 feet from the edge of
the cliff. If something wasn't done,
the lighthouse, which is made up of a
huge brick Victorian building with
the big lighthouse attached, would
soon fall into the sea.
After much deliberation about
hether or not it should be moved or
just left to fall over the cliff, it was
finally decided to move the lighthouse
back 250 feet. It took about four years
to get the funds together and permits
to move the 200 -ton building. It was a
one of the biggest building movers in
the country, but it was done. It was
even documented by the National
Geographic Society because of its size
and importance.
It was moved by a company from
Boston that also moved the lighthouse
at Cape Hatteras back to safety.
From there we drove over more
back roads, saw more beau-
tiful rolling green hills and
stone walls. One -third of
the island has been pre-
served by the Block Island
Nature Conservancy. It
reminds me of The Nature
Conservancy's Mashomack
that has preserved a third of
Shelter Island. It's a beauti-
ful spot, this Block Island, and we had
the most perfect weather you could ask
for. The island is about three miles
wide and seven miles long. There are
no street lights, no McDonald's or
Burger Kings and not a red light to be
seen. All their garbage has to be
shipped off the island by ferry.
Electric power is a precious com-
modity on the island; it's all generated
by diesel engine and so street lights and
any extra things like air conditioning
and electric heating are just unknown.
We passed the one gas station and
elieve it or not, the price was about
FOCUS
ON
NATURE
by Paul
Stoutenburgh
e same as it is here. There are few
:es on the island, as they were proba
y all cut down for firewood. The
iergy crisis is a big factor out there.
We were told there are over 300
;shwater ponds in which perch, bass
d pickerel can be caught. Of course,
e big saltwater fishing around Block
and is striped bass and bluefish, the
me as at Montauk. Before we came
our last stop in town we stopped at
famous Sullivan House, which is
rched up on a hill overlooking the
rbor. It's a great place for weddings,
th 30 to 40 held there each year. You
1 see from one harbor to the other
im this vantage point. We wanted to
left off in town, which is the center
the tourist trade. Here in Old
irbor the ferries come in, eight or
to a day from Rhode Island and
Most bring day trippers along with
commercial trucks carrying food sup-
plies and all the other necessities that
make the island function. It's something
to see the people getting off by the hun-
dreds, renting their bicycles and mope-
ds and taking off. Then there are those
walking with their baggage to the hotels
and motels. Others were hailing taxis to
be taken off to some special retreat. We
were glad to just visit the area. We did
have lunch at the Mohegan Cafe, where
we watched tourists of every size, shape
and color pass by. Then we headed back
to our boat after spending a delightful
couple of hours at the Block Island
Historical Society building. There's a lot
of history there.
That evening my son flew in from
Mattituck in his plane and spent the
evening with us. He took us to the ele-
gant Spring House Hotel up on a hill
overlooking the water. We had a
scrumptious meal as we listened to
enchanting piano music. It was a great
evening and one we'll remember for a
long time. It was a short drive back to
the boat. So under a full moon and a
cool breeze we headed for bed.
The next day Barbara and I took a
tour around the harbor in a little cruise
boat. It was kind of neat to see it all
again, this time from a visiting tourist's
vantage point rather than from what
we remembered when our own boat
would be anchored in the harbor. The
at 4:30 p.m. we boarded the ferry back
to Montauk.
We had three delightful days on
Block, so if you have nothing to do,
head for Montauk, get there by 8 a.m.
to get your ticket — pay $5 to park
your car — be a day tripper or stay
longer. The majority of people just go
for the day and see the island by tour-
ing, moped, bicycle or just walking. It's
a splendid mini vacation only a short
way from home, where you'll find an
entirely different world to enjoy. Many
visitors feel it reminds them of
England or Ireland with their green
rolling hills, stone walls, quiet ponds,
neat gray - shingled homes and the taste
of salt in the air.