July 23, 1998 - Refreshing retreat on Gardiners IslandGA • The Suffolk Times • July 23, 1998
Refreshing retreat on Gardiners Island
"Be at the boat at 4 o'clock and we'll
head for Gardiners from there." It was
like a shot of adrenaline, for it meant that
Barbara and I were going to stay
overnight on Gardiners Island, a place
I've come to love
and dream about
over the past 50 Focus
years. My first ON
introduction to
this "magical NATURE
island" came
when I was invit- Sto buPaul l'gh
ed by Roy Wilcox, tlte
the noted South
Shore naturalist, to be part of an expedi-
tion that was going to visit the island to
check on the ospreys that nested on
Bostwick Point, that sandy dune -grass
area that once ran all the way to the
"Ruins" (the old fort off the north end of
the island). Dr. Larry Waitz took us to
the island in his beautiful sloop, the
Frigate Bird. She was a classic wooden
boat that could easily have been in one of
Winslow Homer's Caribbean paintings.
We anchored off Bostwick Point and
went ashore in a dinghy, then each of us
pursued his own special interest. Mine
was to photograph the osprey. Here it
was relatively simple, for most of the big
nests in those days were built right on
the beach. The memory of that intro-
duction into the "magical isle" lasts to
this day. I've been back many times,
sometimes just to visit, often on osprey
surveys, and over 30 times on Christmas
bird counts and once when Harry Waite
and I spent a chilly night on the beach
below Tobaccolot when the engine
failed in our boat.
We no sooner left the little marina at
Orient than we started to see lobster
buoys all about us. For a while it
reminded me of our sailing days along
the New England coast where we saw
lobster buoys as common as trees in a
forest. Each had its own color code.
Some were even marked by fluttering
colorful flags.
As we went along we saw common
terns with small fish in their bills head-
ing northeast toward their rocky outpost
on Great Gull Island. Hungry chicks
awaited their return with silversides or
sand eels or whatever meal was avail-
able from the local waters. This tern
white dot of spray appeared that grew
into a boat with Alix aboard. With our
party now complete we headed to the
manor house, where we were shown our
room and were able to wash up after our
dash across the bay.
Seeing we were all interested in the
same thing, we soon piled into a safari-
type vehicle and headed for Great Pond
to the south. We drove along dusty
roads where wild turkeys ran for cover
as we moved along. Some flew to
island. It's also speculated that the
have harassed the nesting osprey t
such an extent that the osprey are hav
ing a difficult time bringing up thei
young. The herring gulls would be jus
part of a larger problem we'd find as w
moved farther south.
At the end of the road we headed ou
to the western shoreline toward the inlet.,
Now the gull species changed from her-
ring gulls to greater black- backed gulls.
This is our largest and most aggressive
gull. They have
literally taken
over this end of
the island. The
only other bird
that somehow
seems to have
been able to exist
under this mas-
sive takeover of
black -back gulls
is the oyster-
catcher. Perhaps
their formidable
red knife -like bill
holds the gulls
off. Gone are the
nesting black
skimmers and
the lovely terns
that once nested
by the hundreds
on this south end.
Gone also are
the nesting her-
ring gulls that
once nested here.
So fierce and ag-
gressive are the
black -back gulls
that they often
drive the young
herring gulls into the water, where they
easily fall prey to their murderous hack-
ing bills.
remember when
they first started
nesting there. It
was on a small
island in Home
Pond. Today they
have destroyed
that island and
have moved to the
mainland, where
they are killing the
trees and shrubs
below with their
white excrement.
There must be
over 500 cor-
morants nesting in
the trees and each
year there seem to
be more and
more. Today we
see cormorants in
most of our creeks
and bays, places
where we've neve4
seen them before.
From Cherry
Hill we could see the newly painted
windmill that stands out as a landmark
on the west side of the island. In no time
we were tied up in the snug little harbor,
our adventure about to begin.
Suffolk Times photo by Paul Stoutenburgh
A young osprey tries out Its wings from its beach nest on Gardiners Island.
Seeing there are no predators on the Island -- except for unwanted visitors
who Illegally come ashore — nests are safe on the ground.
Greeted by old friends
At the dock we were greeted by Alex
and Bob Goelet. How good it was to see
them again. Handshakes and hugs melt-
ed into great conversation as we waited
for their daughter to come by boat from
the mainland. Soon out of the west a
i W-K ONO 9w 1 w elk, W V Id M � W �
JIM G ■ h7 I.rVVR Zip HLA
75 years ago
July 20, 1923
News from surrounding towns: Mattituck certainly is
growing. The Board of Trade has been doing some good
work. We now have a traffic cop, on what we are accus-
tomed to calling the "Mattituck House Corner," anti we
are going to have another on the corner where the old post
office used to stand. They also tell us we're going to have a
speed cop. Some change, we'll say.
Southold —The golf links at Bay View are being laid out.
Tanning, Edwards and Gagen have sold a tractor to the
company which is doing this work.
Has anybody noticed how much better the women walk
now that they don't teeter along on spool heels?
We've a traffic cop — Joe Walters. Speeders, be careful.
Joe is no printed sign swinging in the air, and may be
depended on to pursue speeders to the limit.
50 years ago
July 23, 1948
Yours, Ike: While Major Starr Cooper of Shelter Island
Heights was attending his class reunion at Yale recently,
he had a 10- minute interview with General Eisenhower.
General Eisenhower, who had just received an honorary
degree of LL.D. from Yale, gave Major Cooper his auto-
graph with the remark, "That's my first signature as a
Yale man." -
25 years ago
escape our coming. It's amazing how
well and fast these big birds fly. About
two miles down the deep -worn road we
came to the small grass runway of the
private airport. From here on we'd see
nesting herring gulls everywhere. Many
had gray - blotched young that waddled
off to hide under a bush or tuft of grass.
Gulls would be in the air about us con-
tinually squawking and calling their
alarm as their young took to cover.
Gulls have driven alt the terns, black
skimmers and piping plovers from the
July 19, 1973
LILCO has nuclear plans: The Long Island Lighting
Company announced this week that it is holding a public
meeting on July 24 at Riverhead High School to provide
members of the local community with the latest informa-
tion about its plans to build a new nuclear power station to
meet Long Island's electric requirements. At the meeting
LILCO representatives will discuss the reasons for build-
ing the plant, the local, state and federal approvals that are
necessary before the plant can be built, and the environ-
mental studies the company has undertaken before it
makes its final selection between two prime sites for its
next nuclear unit.
Last June 29 LILCO announced that it has purchased the
525 -acre "Jamesport site," as a possible site for a nuclear
unit. The company is also considering the use of its
"Shoreham West" property, a 425 -acre tract of land adja-
cent to the company's Shoreham nuclear project site at
Wading River, as an alternate site for the next nuclear plant.
Real estate classifleds: Southold— Year - round, water
view, private beach rights, three - bedroom ranch, living
room, fireplace, dining room, bath, attached garage. Asking
$36,500.
For rent—July rental, three - bedroom, waterfront house,
private beach, by the week, $200 per week, including utili-
ties.
First fall migrants
Here the small inlet drains the lush
salt marsh surrounding Great Pond. By
now the sun had settled low on the hori-
zon and our world had taken on the spell
that only comes at that time of the day.
We watched as if we were on a safari in
some distant land as evening made its
first move to take over the day. Before us
the little inlet rushed out and sand bars
appeared that melted into the greenery
of the marsh in back. Everywhere along
the main beach noisy black - backed gulls
either flew or stood guard over their
nesting sites. In the marsh and along its
water's edge a new and exciting array of
birds had moved in.
We were witnessing some of the first
fall shorebird migrations. Black -bel-
lied plover, yellowlegs, dowitchers,
knots, least sandpipers and others that
had already traveled to the tundra in
the far north to raise their young were
now stopping here to feed and rest
before they headed south for the win-
ter. It was a rare spectacle in that rose -
colored light of late afternoon. Then
to top it off, groups of snowy egrets
and the big common egrets fed in the
shallows of the marsh. Night herons
flew in to stalk their evening meal.
Then every once in a while a few
glossy ibis would drift in hoping to
spot some unsuspecting fiddler crab
down in its hole. All these waders nest
inland on the island.
As I said in the beginning, "our adven-
ture was just about to begin." We'd have
a night of enjoyable company, eating and
telling tales of bygone days. We walked
See Focus, next page
July 30, 1998 • The Suffolk Times • 9A
Seeing the sights at Cedar Point
We've sailed by Cedar Point Light east
of Sag Harbor many times in the past
and each time felt a little sad to see the
old rugged stone lighthouse that, like so
many objects, was
decommissioned Focus
operative. is now in-
operative. Once a ON
family lived there
and tended this NATURE
beacon of reassur- by Paul
ance that has now Stoutenburgh
been replaced by
a steel automatic
flashing light that in today's world is the
essence of efficiency, but in no way is as
nostalgic as the old. It's like so many
other things that go under the banner of
progress, there are pluses and minuses to
each.
We pondered these thoughts as we
stood on the bank at Cedar Point
County Park this week. We had
dropped everything at home, collected a
bit of food and took off with the camper
to reacquaint ourselves with this huge,
rolling, 600 -acre campground. I had
fond memories of years ago when the
park was first getting started, for here a
group of young "environmentalists" and
their parentl were finishing up their
course in East End ecology with a cam -
pout celebration. I had been hired to
teach this course to youngsters and as
part of the course we all went to Cedar
Point to experience the outdoors in a
busy 48 -hour campout. Now, years later,
we were once again standing on the
shore of the park's northwest harbor,
looking to where the Cedar Point Light
still stands as a silent sentinel even
though it's deserted.
Before the 1938 hurricane the light-
house stood on a small island at the
entrance of the harbor to the historic
whaling center of Sag Harbor. Then
after the rage and destruction of that
fateful day it became connected to the
mainland by a long sandy strip that has
grown in size with each passing year. We
had hoped to walk out to the lighthouse,
but because the area had attracted the
endangered terns and plovers it will be
off - limits until the birds finish their nest-
ing.
The park is spread out under a canopy
of mostly mature black and white oaks.
Many of the campsites are worn bare
from years of use. There are no paved
roads except for the excellent entrance
road that winds in and out and up and
down on its way to the park. One would
hardly believe you are on flat Long
Island for here the terrain is so different,
and so up and down, it makes you won-
der exactly where you are.
Many of the up and down places have
created wet spots where swamp honey-
suckle was just finishing up with its last
white flowers. It and the sweet pepper -
bush that's just
now in bud satu-
rate the area with
their sweet, pun-
gent smell. These,
along with the but
tonbush with its
sunburst flower
ball, can be found
wherever it is
damp and moist
Once set up we
left the camper
and traveled
around in our
pickup to explore
the area. There are
many trails that
wander through
the woods of this
spacious park.
Surprisingly the
campsite was only
partially full. Most
sites were taken up
by families in tents
as there are no
hookups for travel
trailers. Over on
one road near the water we found a
lovely area set aside for day groups such
as schools, churches, clubs and organiza-
tions. Grills and tables, garbage cans
and a mowed lawn under spacious trees
were all empty. Weekends are their busy
time. At one road end there were sleek
small catamarans, canoes and kayaks
for rent. What I liked about this was
how low -key everything was. It's truly a
camping area with all the basics but no
amusement park -type paraphernalia.
We drove past Alewives Pond and
stopped to look and found you could ridiculous. One would think he would
rent rowboats there to explore the pond have gone back to unload but, no, he
that leads out into the bay. Again, no big had no thought of leaving his new -found
concessions stood out, just the rowboats treasure. Finally when all the seeds were
pulled up on the shore. We had walked picked up, off he scampered, disappear -
down to the pond just as a father and ing among the leaves. His domain and
son in their respective kayaks were treasure house was somewhere down
heading in. It was late in the evening below where his winter stores were
and paddling must have been ideal, for cached.
the wind had dropped off. The young The only other takers Barbara had for
boy beamed as I asked if he had caught her bird seed were the ever- present
any fish. "Yes, a small striped bass but grackles. They are like a small version of
we let it go," he answered. What a won- the crow and are always looking for a
derful way to introduce a young person free meal. Campers in one way or anoth-
er will sooner or
Suffolk Times Photo by Paul Stoutenburgh
One of the things the south shore has In quantity that the north shore lacks
Is chipmunks. They are always a happy addition to any outing.
i.i L a 7 Lr V V t\ D H %0* 1%
75 years ago
July 27, 1923
SI estate sold: One of the most important real estate
transactions on Eastern Long Island in some time is the
sale by Miss Annie Nicoll to lawyer Willard Baylis of
Huntington of 1,100 acres of land at Shelter Island,
including Mashomac [sic] Point, the consideration being
in the neighborhood of $100,000.
It is reported that negotiations are also under way for
the purchase of the remaining 900 acres of the property at
Shelter Island owned by the Nicoll heirs, which has been
in the family since the latter part of 1600 or early 1700.
The sale of the larger part of the property to lawyer Baylis
is the first time any part of the original tract has been out
of the hands of the family in more than two centuries.
50 years ago
July 30, 1948
Comedy hit at playhouse: On Aug. 2, Southold
Playhouse will present Harry Segal's riotous comedy hit,
"Heaven Can Wait." John Marley will stage the play and
he will again work with Jack Warden, who in this piece
takes the part of a prizefighter who becomes involved in
situations that are both unexpected and hilarious.
Others in the cast of "Heaven Can Wait" will be
Walter Matthau, Will Scholz, June Prud'homme and
Margaret Thomson.
to the world of camping, fishing and
healthy living.
Back at the campsite where Barbara
was busy preparing a meal, we had a vis-
itor — a busy little chipmunk. Barbara
carries wild bird seed along just in case
there are some takers around. This time
her offerings had attracted a chipmunk.
We'd seen them scampering in the
woods as we came in and now ours was
busy collecting seed. We watched as the
little fellow moved about, filling his
jowls to a point that he looked a little
Forest companions meet: On Thursday of last week
the members of the Shenandoah Circle Companions of
the Forest celebrated their 19th anniversary with a ban-
quet at the Hotel Sterlington in Greenport. Six of the 25
members present were charter members. At the close of
the evening's festivities the Companions unanimously
agreed that it was one of the most enjoyable celebrations
in the history of the fraternal order.
25 years ago
July 26, 1973
Octagon House is Important landmark: The Octagon
House on Main Road in Mattituck has been receiving a lot
of attention lately. Under the guidance of the New York
State Board for Historic Preservation, the historic building
is being photographed and measured, and forms are being
filled out for the National Register of Historic Places.
According to Mrs. Barbara VanLiew of the Society for
the Preservation of Long Island Antiquities, "the builder,
Andrew Gildersleeve, bought the land in 1853 and erect-
ed the house and attached store in 1854 and 1855.
However, he did not commence keeping store until the
spring of 1856. Later the whole structure was used for
commercial purposes."
Mrs. VanLiew said she hoped that the owners of this
interesting landmark appreciated it, and would repair
and refurbish the building without changing its character.
later provide that
meal. The female
grackle is much dif-
ferent from the
black male, whose
iridescent blue
head, when caught
by the right light,
becomes quite
handsome. The fe-
male is smaller and
a brown color.
Both carry them-
selves in an
upright, deliberate
fashion.
No trip to the
south shore can es-
cape the over-
whelming problem
of traffic. Week-
ends as well as
Mondays and Fri-
days are especially
aggravating. I
think it was outside
of Southampton
College we started
to see things slow down. By the time we
reached the traffic light at the four cor-
ners outside Southampton village, we
were traveling at a snail's pace.
Bicyclists passed us never to be seen
again. One thing it did do was give us
time to look at the wildflowers along the
roadside. Tall spires of mullein with
their small yellow blossoms flourished
in the now dry ground.
Queen Anne's lace, that tall white
umbrella flower, was everywhere. It
reminded us of our daughter's back-
yard wedding years ago. She wanted
wildflowers for her special day and so
we picked armfuls of Queen Anne's
lace and they proved to be most appro-
priate.
The quarter -size sky -blue flowers of
chicory told us summer was well on its
way. We've been told its roots make a
fair substitute for coffee and it is often
blended with coffee to give the drink a
touch of chicory flavor. The yellow clus-
ters of St. John's wort we saw brought
back memories of years ago when "we
kids" used to gather it for Grandpa. He
would make a special liniment out of the
blossoms that turned the alcohol to a
beautiful red color. Most of the wayside
flowers like butter -and -eggs are now
accepted by most as part of our wild-
flowers even though they actually came
from the Old World. Spotting and
knowing these wildflowers made our
tedious, slow journey over and back a
bit more bearable.
We had sampled the county park at
Cedar Point and stepped into a world of
carefree living — no telephone, no TV,
no meetings — just us. It's important
every once in a while to slip away and
collect your thoughts and sort out the
unimportant that tries to blind us from
what truly makes life worthwhile.
Camping does just that.
P k
5
P'
Ise
9
V,
KNI
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Suffolk Times Photo by Paul Stoutenburgh
One of the things the south shore has In quantity that the north shore lacks
Is chipmunks. They are always a happy addition to any outing.
i.i L a 7 Lr V V t\ D H %0* 1%
75 years ago
July 27, 1923
SI estate sold: One of the most important real estate
transactions on Eastern Long Island in some time is the
sale by Miss Annie Nicoll to lawyer Willard Baylis of
Huntington of 1,100 acres of land at Shelter Island,
including Mashomac [sic] Point, the consideration being
in the neighborhood of $100,000.
It is reported that negotiations are also under way for
the purchase of the remaining 900 acres of the property at
Shelter Island owned by the Nicoll heirs, which has been
in the family since the latter part of 1600 or early 1700.
The sale of the larger part of the property to lawyer Baylis
is the first time any part of the original tract has been out
of the hands of the family in more than two centuries.
50 years ago
July 30, 1948
Comedy hit at playhouse: On Aug. 2, Southold
Playhouse will present Harry Segal's riotous comedy hit,
"Heaven Can Wait." John Marley will stage the play and
he will again work with Jack Warden, who in this piece
takes the part of a prizefighter who becomes involved in
situations that are both unexpected and hilarious.
Others in the cast of "Heaven Can Wait" will be
Walter Matthau, Will Scholz, June Prud'homme and
Margaret Thomson.
to the world of camping, fishing and
healthy living.
Back at the campsite where Barbara
was busy preparing a meal, we had a vis-
itor — a busy little chipmunk. Barbara
carries wild bird seed along just in case
there are some takers around. This time
her offerings had attracted a chipmunk.
We'd seen them scampering in the
woods as we came in and now ours was
busy collecting seed. We watched as the
little fellow moved about, filling his
jowls to a point that he looked a little
Forest companions meet: On Thursday of last week
the members of the Shenandoah Circle Companions of
the Forest celebrated their 19th anniversary with a ban-
quet at the Hotel Sterlington in Greenport. Six of the 25
members present were charter members. At the close of
the evening's festivities the Companions unanimously
agreed that it was one of the most enjoyable celebrations
in the history of the fraternal order.
25 years ago
July 26, 1973
Octagon House is Important landmark: The Octagon
House on Main Road in Mattituck has been receiving a lot
of attention lately. Under the guidance of the New York
State Board for Historic Preservation, the historic building
is being photographed and measured, and forms are being
filled out for the National Register of Historic Places.
According to Mrs. Barbara VanLiew of the Society for
the Preservation of Long Island Antiquities, "the builder,
Andrew Gildersleeve, bought the land in 1853 and erect-
ed the house and attached store in 1854 and 1855.
However, he did not commence keeping store until the
spring of 1856. Later the whole structure was used for
commercial purposes."
Mrs. VanLiew said she hoped that the owners of this
interesting landmark appreciated it, and would repair
and refurbish the building without changing its character.
later provide that
meal. The female
grackle is much dif-
ferent from the
black male, whose
iridescent blue
head, when caught
by the right light,
becomes quite
handsome. The fe-
male is smaller and
a brown color.
Both carry them-
selves in an
upright, deliberate
fashion.
No trip to the
south shore can es-
cape the over-
whelming problem
of traffic. Week-
ends as well as
Mondays and Fri-
days are especially
aggravating. I
think it was outside
of Southampton
College we started
to see things slow down. By the time we
reached the traffic light at the four cor-
ners outside Southampton village, we
were traveling at a snail's pace.
Bicyclists passed us never to be seen
again. One thing it did do was give us
time to look at the wildflowers along the
roadside. Tall spires of mullein with
their small yellow blossoms flourished
in the now dry ground.
Queen Anne's lace, that tall white
umbrella flower, was everywhere. It
reminded us of our daughter's back-
yard wedding years ago. She wanted
wildflowers for her special day and so
we picked armfuls of Queen Anne's
lace and they proved to be most appro-
priate.
The quarter -size sky -blue flowers of
chicory told us summer was well on its
way. We've been told its roots make a
fair substitute for coffee and it is often
blended with coffee to give the drink a
touch of chicory flavor. The yellow clus-
ters of St. John's wort we saw brought
back memories of years ago when "we
kids" used to gather it for Grandpa. He
would make a special liniment out of the
blossoms that turned the alcohol to a
beautiful red color. Most of the wayside
flowers like butter -and -eggs are now
accepted by most as part of our wild-
flowers even though they actually came
from the Old World. Spotting and
knowing these wildflowers made our
tedious, slow journey over and back a
bit more bearable.
We had sampled the county park at
Cedar Point and stepped into a world of
carefree living — no telephone, no TV,
no meetings — just us. It's important
every once in a while to slip away and
collect your thoughts and sort out the
unimportant that tries to blind us from
what truly makes life worthwhile.
Camping does just that.