June 26, 1997 - Retracing Our Montauk Steps6A • The Suffolk Times • June 26, 1997
Retracing Our Montauk Steps
This is being written from Site I7 at
Hither Hills State Park in Montauk. The
sun is out bright after a starry night with
cool temperatures that make the air re-
freshing. With all these factors under our
belt and an early rise, Barbara and I decid-
ed to revisit an old campsite of ours on the
shore of nearby Napeague Bay.
When we were first married and this
area was little known, we camped on that
lonely stretch of beach. We trailered a lit-
tle old boat loaded down with a borrowed
tent, alcohol stove, sleeping bags and
other parapherna-
lia we would need
for the long Labor Focus
Day weekend. We
selected a spot on
about a mile up the Nature
beach and an- N
chored the boat in by pair
knee -deep water Stoutenburg6
and proceeded to
set up our tent. It
was the ideal spot, with calm blue waters
of the bay only a few feet from our tent
door and as a backdrop the open spaces of
the walking dunes. Looking back, I doubt
now if we realized how lucky we were.
Today we left our pickup at the end of
Napeague Harbor Road, the same spot
we'd left our vehicle some 46 years before,
but today rather than travel by boat we
walked up the beach. Actually, little about
the area has changed, for it is now protect-
ed by the state park system. There seems to
be a narrower beach that's overrun with
vehicle tracks, and the famous tall radio
towers to the south that were a landmark
have now been reduced to one. Of course,
there are more houses around the south and
to the west, but overall the area has
remained quite desolate, wild and wonder-
ful, giving you a feeling of open space that
few places on the island can still claim.
As we strolled northward, we could see
beach plum bushes and dune grass trying
their best to hold the dunes from being
blown away by the harsh north winter
winds and the relentless southwest sum-
mer winds.
Least terns greeted us as we walked
along the rust - colored sand that charac-
terizes this lower area. These dainty tems,
along with common and roseate terns,
nest out on a sandy spit at the mouth of the
bay. Every once in a while one would hes-
itate from its pumping flight to hover, then
drop in a series of aligning beats and when
about six feet above the water would fold
its wings and plunge for a meal. They
were feeding on sand eels.
Cormorants were also fishing farther
out in the bay, their bodies half -sub-
merged and their snake-
like necks protruding
from their black bodies.
They nest to the north, on
the west side of
Gardiners Island, which
we could see lying low in
the distance. We also saw
footprints of a fox in the
wet sand as we steadily
moved along the now -
narrow beach. Barbara's
keen nose later would
smell the fox. His unmis-
takable odor is much like
that of a skunk. Perhaps it
was the spot where he
found a discarded fish
along the shore when he
was patrolling and took it
up into the bushes to eat
and therefore concentrat-
ed his odor in that area.
There were no land-
marks to mark our early
campsite. Too many
years had passed since
that Labor Day weekend.
The only thing I remem-
ber was that there was a
pipe lying in the water, a
relic of when fishing
shacks once ringed the
bay. At one place we
found overbaked bricks,
throwaways of the brick
industry that were proba-
bly picked up for nothing
and used by the fishermen to make tem-
porary fireplaces on the beach. They knew
nothing lasts forever on sandy beaches
and therefore the bricks were expendable.
The fishermen probably hauled seine
for bunkers that often came into these big
bays and were caught by the millions.
There are still remnants of an old factory
chimney that marked a fish processing
plant across the bay. This was the area
called Promised Land, where bunker fish
were brought to be made into fish meal.
They say it got its name because the peo-
ple living nearby said the processing of
the fish "smelled to high heaven," thus
Promised Land.
About three - quarters of our way along
the beach I saw the pipe I remembered from
long ago. It was made of cast iron and there-
A loaded -down party boat called the
Pelican had capsized just off Montauk
Point with a heavy loss of life. Ironically
a newspaper man had gone to Montauk
to write a story about party boat fishing
off this famous point and had pho-
tographed the Pelican as it left the dock,
with all its happy fisher-
men waving.
On a much brighter note
we had one of the most
memorable weekends our
young marriage could
remember. In the evening
the sun would set in the
west over the bay. We'd
sit by our campfire for
then there were no regu-
lations about fires and
later at night the water
would literally lap at our
front door and set us off
to an incredible sleep. It
is memories of times like
this that make life worth-
while.
Still walking northward
we could see patches of
pink on the dunes ahead
of us and by using my
binoculars I could see the
wild salt spray rose cov-
ering the entire dune. To
the left of that we spotted
signs through the binocu-
lars. They were signs
announcing the nesting
area of the endangered
piping plover and least
tems. Through the efforts
of many dedicated peo-
ple, these nesting sites
have been found through-
out all of Long Island and
roped off with appropri-
ate warnings telling why we should give
these birds a wide berth. They are both
endangered species and nest on the
ground. Beach traffic is disastrous to them.
Through volunteer efforts and the cooper-
ation of the public these once "on the
decline" beach nesters are now making a
comeback and we should all take our hats
off to those dedicated individuals who
have worked so hard to protect them.
At one point we noticed the bay had
broken through the dune into the walking
dunes area and in so doing created a small
sand spit jutting out into the bay. A lone
bird stood like a sentinel there — a willet,
a large shore bird with a heavy long bill.
At first it was hard to distinguish what
kind of bird it was for there were no char-
acteristic markings, but once in flight its
white rump and bold white wing markings
gave it away easily as a willet. It flew up
as we approached and was back again
when we returned.
Willets nest in the high ground around
some of our beaches. Evidently this one
nested somewhere along the bay edge.
The best place to see this showy, often-
times noisy, shore bird is along Dune
Road in Westhampton. It, like the oyster-
catcher that nests along our bays but clos-
er to the water's edge, is a noisy bird when
disturbed. I love to hear them for their call
reminds me of lonely desolate beaches
and glaring sun.
Our 7 o'clock walk was one down
memory lane. We stopped once to take a
picture of the two of us, using the self
timer on the camera. If you ever use this
gadget, you laugh as we did running to get
back into the picture so that we'd have a
memento of that wonderful spot that has-
n't changed much through the years.
Suffolk Times photo by Paul Stoutenburgh
THE NOISY WILLET —While most shore birds are in the tundra
far to the north of us, some nest locally: the noisy oyster- catcher,
the sparrow -sized spotted sandpiper, the robin -sized willet and the
endangered piping plover. All nest on the edge of our bays, most-
ly on the south shore and on the islands of the East End.
a
acct a UUUA nallia
75 Years Ago
June 23, 1922
1 Scream, You Scream..: An ice cream parlor has
been the cry of Greenport Village for many a year. This cry,
in a few days, will be satisfied for Mrs. Chester Ketcham will
serve you with delicious ice cream at the store of Mrs. W. H.
Wiggins. "All things come to them that wait."
For Sale: 30 -foot launch, 12 horsepower engine, all in
good condition. $350. Sweet's Ship Yard, Greenport.
40 -foot Cruiser, now in commission, fully equipped, sleep-
ing quarters for five; can be seen at Preston's dock, foot of
Main Street, Greenport. Price $5,500.
Ford Racing Car, cut very low. Won more than $250 at
Riverhead Races. Great bargain, $150. George Barr,
Greenport.
50 Years Ago
June 27, 1947
Hospital Plans Change: Plans for the new hospital
to be built in Riverhead have been redrawn to bring costs
within the range of the building fund raised by the Riverhead
Hospital Association. The revision leaves unchanged at 64
beds the capacity of the proposed hospital, which is to be
erected on the northeast corner plot at the intersection of
County Route 58 and Roanoke Avenue. However, several
fore lived through the rust that would have
done in a steel pipe lying in the salt water. It
lay broken and perhaps its open end made a
palace for some crab or dogfish.
Few who read this will remember that
Labor Day weekend 46 years ago, but if
you lived in Montauk you surely would
for that fatal weekend Montauk hit the
headlines of the New York papers. Our
introduction to this disastrous weekend
came by way of sirens screaming from
across the bay heading toward Montauk.
staff rooms and other facilities which are not considered
absolutely necessary would be eliminated; a flat roof would
be substituted for the gable roof originally planned and ceil-
ing heights would be reduced.
25 Years Ago
June 29, 1972
Expressway to Mattituck: Heaven forfend! The
"final" addition of 2.1 miles of roadway brought the Long
Island Expressway to Riverhead yesterday but it is only
semi -final as far as the East End is concerned because anoth-
er "final" link to Mattituck is on the drawing board, and
where it will end, nobody knows. The extension had been
requested by the county Board of Supervisors in 1968 when
it seemed like a golden opportunity to bring more people and
business to the dead -end North Fork. This reasoning has lost
some of its appeal as the population has mounted from sheer
disenchantment with growth to the west of the island and
from easier accessibility to the East End by the LIE as far as
Calverton.
Police Report: A bird was taken sometime during the
past week from the terrace of Sydney Steiber, Lake Drive.
The bird was part of a statuary, "Woman with Dog and Bird"
valued at $800. It is about 10 inches high and modern in
style. Police are investigating the theft.